Duraspark Ignition box dies after truck sits

[SNAFUHK]

I have gone throw 3 Duraspark Ignition box's in the past 2yrs. I'm using the wiring that was in the truck its a 83 ford ranger that had a 2.0l in it and i put a 2.8l in.All the smog stuff has been remover EGR valve cut off and plugged. it has been siting for about 4 mouth's and the Duraspark Ignition box died again. Anyone have a clue on what could be killing my Duraspark Ignition box?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Where do you have it mounted and is there power going to it when the key is off. If it is getting too hot that will kill it this is the first I have heard of one die from sitting. I have mine mounted over by the voltage regulator on the drivers wheel apron close to the coil so it plugs right into the two wire connector from the ignition. Show me pic`s of the wiring to it.

 

[SNAFUHK]

it is on the inner fender well on the driver side lost time it killed it self the battery was not in the truck. here are the pix i have if i can get this to work there not that good do to I'm in SD and truck is in WA.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

What kind of coil are you using. I got mine from autozone (module) and am running a stock TFI coil. Is it somehow getting wet and is that where the module was originally mounted on the 2.0. I got my harness for the dizzy out of a 84 four cyl and only had to splice one wire the green for the coil to power it up. Where in WA is it It seems to me it would only go bad when your using it and not sitting.

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

Pretty sure that's the factory mounting location.
If you are disconnecting the battery it might be getting damaged when it is re-connected. Do you put the positive on first then the negative?

 

[enginepaul]

I can't imagine how the unit can die without power. I have run many DuraSparks and they rarely fail - they do fail, but not very often - so that would mean something is off on your wiring.
When I used to put these on V8's, I used a factory style canister coil because it was hotter than the old type and you are able to use the clip type coil connector for a neater installation. May people here use the stock TFI coil with excellent results, so that shouldn't be a problem.

Check your wiring again. I used a Motor's manual to trouble-shoot the module and I'm sure you can find info on line about how to do that. One mistake is to assume that because it has power, it is the proper power. These are designed to run with a reduced voltage after starting. On a diagram, you will see that during starting, a full 12V is delivered, and about 9V (if I remember correctly) when running.

Your mounting position looks good to me, so that leads me back to the circuit. I also found that the brand of module doesn't make any difference, so in this case cheaper is just as good - or used to be; I haven't done a DuraSpark for a few years now. These are simple, trouble-free systems when installed right. (But take a spare module with you when on the road to be safe)

 

[Mudhound]

Or, kick it over to an H.E.I. setup and call it a day. I have had way too many D-spark boxes leave me walking over the years. The Dizzy is a relaible piece, but the flood of cheap junky boxes is only getting worse. The Wells brand seems to be the worst of them as well.

 

[gearjmr]

X2 with Mudhound. I burned out a cpl DS boxes and converted it to HEI. I love it, no problems. Easy and reliable. As a word of caution with the HEI modules you want to either mount them on a heatsink of some sort or like i did and to the inner fenderwell. Needs good ground and lots of heatsink compound.