duraspark distributor size differences

[kimcrwbr1]

Oh yea to flush the heater core and radiator tie the hoses up high and fill them with oven cleaner or bleach and let sit overnite then blast them good with water. If they end up leaking they were bad anyway. just be careful where you drain them and flush them good.

 

[1BadRS]

I appreciate the tips. I will give it a try.

 

[dangerranger83]

Another way is to used compressed air too.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The tech library that is here has a few wiring diagrams for the duraspark plus a detailed write-up on how to do it.

Here is one I made a couple years ago to retain the stock coil. I think it has been about 3 years ago and it still works great.

 

[dangerranger83]

Thats the diagram I used for when I did my duraspark setup.

 

[gearjmr]

When I converted mine over to duraspark I followed that diagram also. I ran the stock TFI coil and the canister style just to compare the two. For some reason, probably not using a resistor I burned out two DS boxes.
After much frustration and checking wiring diagrams and connections I switched the box over to a GM HEI. Wiring was simple and has worked flawlessly since. Im running a motorcraft 2150 with #50 jets @ about 12 degs.
Excelent power and economy now. Oh yeah i totally gave up ion the Holley 350. Junk in my opinion.
Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I think the only reason these d-spark boxes are burning up is because the diagram crosses up the start and run circuit if you just wire the red wire to the pos on the coil and the white wire to the start solenoid small wire from the ignition really makes it simple. If your feeding power from the run circuit back to the start circuit the module will burn up. The easiest way to isolate it is to tap into the start signal wire from the solenoid or even use the starter terminal large one it only has power when the starter is turning.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I think the only reason these d-spark boxes are burning up is because the diagram crosses up the start and run circuit if you just wire the red wire to the pos on the coil and the white wire to the start solenoid small wire from the ignition really makes it simple. If your feeding power from the run circuit back to the start circuit the module will burn up. The easiest way to isolate it is to tap into the start signal wire from the solenoid or even use the starter terminal large one it only has power when the starter is turning.

I think you are saying the same thing as my diagram. Mine is pretty much the same thing but with the start bypass and resister taken out. I figured the factory coil didn't need it originally so it shouldn't need it now. Mine still has the Motorcraft junkyard DS box that I put on it when I initially did the swap.

Here is the one that is in the tech library that I based my diagram off of.