Dual Solenoid Valve problem. Options?

[Luke2.9]

Hi All, during brake bleeding on my 1989 Ranger 2.9 the dual solenoid valve between the master cylinder and rear axle closed up. Fluid gets into the intake but won't exit the valve.
My parts dealer here in Germany charges a fortune for a refurbished valve so I'm looking for a better option.
Is it possible to open the valve and service it that way? Has anybody reference values that should be measured across the four pins? Or is there anybody with a spare valve who would sell it and ship it to Germany?

Many thanks in advance

 

[Dirtman]

If you're talking about the rear anti lock brake valve, remove it, throw it in the nearest river, and then splice input and output lines together. It doesn't do anything even when it is working...

 

[RonD]

Yes, they are expensive, part number is E9TZ-2B373-A
I wouldn't waste money on a used one....................even "rebuilt" would be a roll of the dice IMO

Here is a disassemble thread: https://www.therangerstation.com/fo...-back-brakes-proportioning-rabs-valve.133050/

But as it said, cleaning usually doesn't fix them, but its FREE to try

I didn't find any ohm or voltage tests for this 4 wire valve, it may be out there I just didn't see it

Many chose to add a variable proportioning valve in place of the ABS valve when it quits working
The rear ABS just has the one sensor on the differential, so with an OPEN differential, it often can't tell when just one rear wheel locks up as differential is still turning

Variable proportioning allows YOU to set the amount of braking pressure that goes to the rear wheels, turning a knob
So if you normally run with bed empty you may want less braking in the rear
If you have a canopy and/or tools in the bed all the time you may want more braking in the rear
So can be better than this type of factory ABS

 

[Luke2.9]

Many thanks for the replies, that was very helpful.
Today I disassembled the RABS valve which was full of gunk. The outlet valve could not be actuated with 12v, the other one was fine. I could clean the small piston inside the solenoid and all the ports. After reassembling the valve worked fine. I also checked the pinout with a meter with the following results.

pin 1 to 2: 0.4ohms
2-3: 22kohms
3-4 22kohms
2-4:22kohms

Pin 2 seems to be connected to the small plunger between the two solenoids.

It´s possible to check each solenoid with a 12v battery connected to the pins with the large solenoid stem inside the plastic housing(sorry....I can´t remember the correct pinout for that but I just randomly tried it on all pins and did not fry any electrical parts inside the valve)

By the way: In Germany they charge 1029€ (1140$) for a refurbished valve. If my one does fail again i might opt for a variable proportioning valve.

 

[RonD]

Good work

Thank you very much for the info

At those prices, and because you DID fix it, you may want to run an ad, "RABS valve repair $500"

And nice looking Ranger

 

[Curious Hound]

Thanks for posting the resistance readings. That may help someone else in the future.

Nice truck!