driveshaft

[alcatrazhotel]

started making the trans crossmember for the truck . making it out of thick c channel . got it to fit perfect and i went to see how close the u joint would be to the body with the slip yoke . well it was the wrong one , so i stuck the old drive shaft in and it fits perfect but it has the hanger bearing in it and it has the small u joints . when i make the shaft should i use a straight one with or stick with the carrier bearing system. i dont want to throw a u joint at 100mph running from the cops

 

[doorgunner]

it's cheaper&easier to replace a u-joint/drive-shaft than to install H.D. u- joints & then blow the rear end all over the cop's hood either way, he'll give you a free ride. I'd go with a 1 piece drive shaft if I had some money that was gathering dust

 

[Iron Ranger]

Diddo. Easier and less parts to wear out. Here's the how-to in the tech library:http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/June04/offroad.htm

 

[baddad457]

The weak point in the 2 pc shaft is the middle slip yoke. Only way you'll break it is doing a dry burnout on rough pavement with a manual transmission and lots of torque. The front shaft is extremely thick. The center joint is tiny but can be replaced with a better, stronger grease fittingless joint. Mine held up for 2-3 years till I put in the 331 sixpack and attempted a dry burnout. The 1 pc shaft I now have from a 93 Econoline van bumps the floor with two people in the truck or towing a heavy trailer.

 

[alcatrazhotel]

theres also a big rubber bushing that connects the slip in the trans to the driveshaft , it already has a tear in it . so im only going to use that shaft to move the truck around i think .so i need to find the slip for the trans with the ujoint style and get rid of that big piece of rubber. and if im going with a straight ill have to cut out another support between the frame and build a cage

 

[baddad457]

My 89 didn't have any rubber bushings separating the slip from the driveshaft. The only rubber was in the hanger bearing.