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driveshaft question.


I took an old shaft into Walker Bros, a semi truck repair shop. They shortened, balanced, and replaced the rear flange so both U-joints would have the same spicer part number. Painted and applied their sticker so it has a warranty. All for around $150

projectranger.jpg
 
don't pay over $275 for a NEW custom driveshaft....anything over that should have gold-plated u-joints......LOL
 
I took an old shaft into Walker Bros, a semi truck repair shop. They shortened, balanced, and replaced the rear flange so both U-joints would have the same spicer part number. Painted and applied their sticker so it has a warranty. All for around $150

projectranger.jpg

:D I did this with a shaft from a 93 E150 van. Now I have a shaft that bumps the floor (89 Supercab) when 2 people are riding or I fill the 35 gallon fuel tank in the bed full and have too much other "stuff" in the truck.:icon_confused:
 
:D I did this with a shaft from a 93 E150 van. Now I have a shaft that bumps the floor (89 Supercab) when 2 people are riding or I fill the 35 gallon fuel tank in the bed full and have too much other "stuff" in the truck.:icon_confused:

On my "to-do" list this winter is making a trans tunnel in the back of my Supercab for the same reason. I have the big 4" aluminum driveshaft from an '08 Ranger, but it hits my floor about 4" before it will bolt to the rearend.
 
I get the chills everytime mine bumps the floor. :icon_surprised: It's that steel on steel thing that does it. Steel on aluminum? :shok: that's not going to last long. Better move it to the top of the list. :icon_thumby:
 
Oh, it will get done. My truck is so low, the driveshaft won't come close to bolting on, let alone driving... Perfect length, though.
 

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