Drive shaft u-joint replacement


CrimsonEclipse

15+ Year Member

Joined
Sep 16, 2008
Messages
30
Points
3,101
Vehicle Year
2003
Transmission
Manual
2003 B2300 93K miles.

When changing the fuel filter I noticed a slight movement on the drive shaft when pushed.

This year has no zerc fittings on the universal (or ball joints for that matter:annoyed:) so I was never able to service them properly.

I'm also guessing that I can remove the drive shaft and replace the U-joints.
(hopefully something that can be properly serviced too)

Are there any "gotchyas" or tricks that I should know about before performing this task? and will the new parts have a grease fitting?

Thanks

CE
 
It's a preference thing, really. Greaseable joints are inherently weaker because they are made up of less material; thus handling less torque. However, I've seen several arguments saying they last longer because they are serviceable. I am putting Spicer 5-760X (non-greasable) in my front end because I want the added strength.
 
Just have a vice to do them. Don't pound the hell out of them with the hillbilly socket trick. Just remember to grease them if you are putting greaseables back in there. I put them in mine and try to do them every oil change.
 
The new parts having grease fittings will depend greatly on the brand you get. Some have them, some don't.

Make sure to mark your drive shaft and axle flanges so that you can everything back in phase. Otherwise you get a great vibration.

Also, make sure that you smack them to free the needles before putting the shaft back in, or else you will be doing this again in a week. The best method I have found is to put the two non-pressed sides of the cross on the vice so that the end of the shaft hangs in the middle then hit the ear with a 2lb hammer behind the cap. If you spin the joint by hand before and after smacking it, you should be able to feel a big difference.
 

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