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drive shaft swap


glenn123

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2010
Messages
55
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Manual
Hi, i have a 89 extended cab ranger with a 6in lift. and i needed to do the one piece drive shaft swap. My 98 shaft came in yesterday. and i really need to get my truck on the road asap! I cant seem to understand what i need for the rear flange. i have a 7.5 rear end with 2.5" bolt spacing, and i know the 98 shaft has 3'' bolt spacing. so my question is, what do i need to change out? the flange on the axle? or the flange on the shaft? and what is it called and where do i get it? need asap! gotta work on Monday! thanks, Glenn :icon_confused:
 
The way I understand this you'd need another front driveshaft flange to go on the back of your new single piece driveshaft.

Shouldn't matter what configuration Ranger it comes from as long as it's 98+.
Earlier years used a smaller U-Joint.
 
You need to put the 89 flange on the 98 shaft. Since the driveshaft and flange use different size u-joints you could try and find a u-joint that has two different sizes, one for the driveshaft half and the other side of the T is the pinion size. We used to call that a bastard u-joint back before that was politically incorrect, but some of the older guys at the parts counter might recognize the term. The alternative probably involves cutting the back piece off both driveshafts and welding the 89 piece onto the 98 shaft. That has to be professionally done though, because the tiniest wobble or imbalance would tear out your pinion bearings in no time. Try for the u-joint first - it may be special order, but it should be available
 
Thanks for the help guys, i tired looking for a bastard u joint and found one that was a 1310 to 1330 series but it was too big. they don't make a conversion joint thats as small as the pre 90s u joint. so i found i have 2 options, 1 is to find another 98 shaft and change the rear with the front. and run two front flanges on the shaft. but i cant find any junk yards with a 98+ shaft. the one i got i had to order from Maine. so my only other option is to buy this flange i found at http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p52...330_series_flange_yoke_fits_7.5_and_8.8_.html it fits the smaller 7.5 flange and fits the larger 98+ joint. it just sucks i gotta spend 70 bucks on it. thanks again.
 
Yes changing the axle flange was one of my options. But from what Ive researched says if i break the axle flange bolt loose and remove the flange, i could mess up the pinion pressure. And im not that mechanically skilled to mess with ring and pinion gears. i could be wrong but thats just what some other people have said. thanks for the help.
 
The write-up in the tech library refers to the conversion U-joint, but it sounds like what you've got in the 1310 and 1330 combination...what was wrong with it?

I am interested in this also because I am considering putting a 3.0 in my extended cab ranger and have the same problem...I can actually swap the rear end from the 3.0 vehicle that has the 3" bolt flange and have the front spline welded onto the 98 drive shaft...but it is aluminum and not sure if anyone around me can actually do that...

I'd prefer to use conversion U-joints if possible...so I guess the information in the Tech Library is incorrect...good to know...

EDIT: I just saw that you have a 89...meaning the 92 might work with the conversion U-joints...hmmmm...
 
The write-up in the tech library refers to the conversion U-joint, but it sounds like what you've got in the 1310 and 1330 combination...what was wrong with it?

I am interested in this also because I am considering putting a 3.0 in my extended cab ranger and have the same problem...I can actually swap the rear end from the 3.0 vehicle that has the 3" bolt flange and have the front spline welded onto the 98 drive shaft...but it is aluminum and not sure if anyone around me can actually do that...

I'd prefer to use conversion U-joints if possible...so I guess the information in the Tech Library is incorrect...good to know...

EDIT: I just saw that you have a 89...meaning the 92 might work with the conversion U-joints...hmmmm...

Yes from what ive looked up, the 89 and earlier trucks use a smaller u joint than a 1310. this is why it would not work for me. i cant find a conversion joint that is small enough for what i have. im not sure on what size it is. maybe 1210 or something close to that. But for your truck being a 92 it should have the larger 1310 joint so it should be easier and much cheaper for you.
 
Should be, but the truck I was putting the 3.0 in is an 88 with the 2.5" bolt spacing. That's what I meant by swapping in the axel and 3" bolt spacing rear end into the 88 and then using the one-piece shaft.

I could probably use the regular U-joint with that drive shaft but will have to check that out. I was also concerned that the spacing for the transmission mount wasn't high enough with the cross member on the 88. Fortunately, the cross member for the 3.0 is bolted in place so moving that with the transmission would be easy...just a matter of checking the clearance on the gas tank and the rear cross member to make sure the wider drive shaft actually fits.

So many little things to check when you do these kinds of modifications...eh~
 
When I did mine, I used the splice conversion u joint, it's the best option tbh, it's a helluva lot easier and cheaper.
 

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