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drive shaft mod.


jmcleek

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2009
Messages
249
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
Ok , swaped in an 8.8 rear end from an 92 explorer 4x4 with 3.73 gears to replace a 7.5 open diff. The bolt pattern on 7.5 is 3.5, the pattern on the 8.8 is 4.0 I have the drive shafts from the ranger and the rear of the explorer. The "U" joints are differnt size, tube same size and legth, slip joint differnt size. need to shorten about one inch. What is best way to modify?
 
I cut an inch off the splines at the slip joint of my 7.5 drive shaft.
The companion flange of shaft centers on the flange of the rear end,the bolts just hold it together.You can transfer punch new holes in the flange on the 8.8 between the old holes,remove the drive shaft drill and tap.
I cant remember what size the bolts are I know they are a metric thread.A good parts store or machine shop can tell you what size bit and tap you need.

Take in consideration this was done before the V-8 swap and a new drive shaft was made since then.This held up fine with the 2.8.
 
If your drive shaft from the 7.5 is the right length but different flange size then take the flange off of the exploder d-shaft and go get a jump universal joint made by percision part number#353 put the short end on the 7.5 dshaft and the long side to the explorer flange and bolt her up i just did the same thing on my 89 b2
 
why not use the yoke from the 7.5 and put it on the 8.8 then use the 7.5 drive shaft
 
Yea, well the bolt pattern for the wheels is the same ,same well studs, but the hub is 1/8 inch larger.:shok:
 
The 7.5 shaft is to long as the 8.8 is bigger.
You lose about an inch in the swap on the drive shaft.
 
So basiclly the bolt in 8.8 swap isnt a bolt in thing. Then why do people call it that?
 
I'm not saying this is the only way to do it,just the way I did.
Ran it for 6 months or so till the V8 swap.
 
For the later years they are a bolt in. Earlier years do require some modifications, right from the tech library:
For swapping into a Ranger, a 4.0L Ranger donor is the best choice, as it is in most cases a bolt-in affair. Explorers and others will work, check the notes below for specifics. Pre-1990 Rangers will need minor driveshaft modifications, or the driveshaft from the donor, as the driveshaft flange on pre-90's is smaller. All axles listed below have a 5 on 4.5 bolt circle.
Dave
 
For the later years they are a bolt in. Earlier years do require some modifications, right from the tech library:
For swapping into a Ranger, a 4.0L Ranger donor is the best choice, as it is in most cases a bolt-in affair. Explorers and others will work, check the notes below for specifics. Pre-1990 Rangers will need minor driveshaft modifications, or the driveshaft from the donor, as the driveshaft flange on pre-90's is smaller. All axles listed below have a 5 on 4.5 bolt circle.

Dave

That only counts if the axle is out of the same model of vehicle (like a Ranger 8.8 to a different Ranger) with the same cab/bed configuration.

I always thought the driveshaft mod was for the actual u-joint itself as mentioned in the article, I have never heard the difference in axle size shortening the driveshaft. Unless the later 7.5's have a different snout they should require a shorter driveshaft to complete the swap as well.

I pulled the flange off of mine and had a machine shop drill and tap a new set of holes for the smaller pattern. I have yet to get the axle in the truck though to know how it will work. Flanges with the smaller pattern are available, but since I am going to be putting in a V-8 and having a driveshaft made for that I didn't want to deal with the driveshaft twice... so I can roll both ways.
 
The 85 I have is long wheel base had the 2.8 at the time.The donor was 94 LWB I believe with a 4.0.
It was crashed in the front,had 4" lift (good bye blocks) skyjacker springs under it.
I rolled springs,rear end and all under mine as one piece.Of course the bolt pattern for the 7.5 flange was small and the drive shaft was about an Inch to long.I cut off about an inch out of the slip joint splined shaft and re drilled the flange on the 8.8 and was done.
 
So why is it a bolt in deal for a later truck that also has a 7.5? Did they change the front of the 7.5 somwhere down the line too?
 
I went ahead and changed the drive shaft yoke ass. by the rear end. Had to cut 1 1/2 inch from the tube because the the parts from the Explerer shaft added 1/2 inch.
 

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