Drive shaft bolts.

[Terry]

My truck has been clunking when I back out of a parking space and when I put it in drive. I climbed under the truck and my rear u joint is wasted beyond belief. I had to order some from the auto parts store. My truck is a ext cab and had the two piece drive shaft. I thought no big deal I would go home and tear down the old drive shaft and be ready to put the new joints in when I got them today, wrong. I cant get the bolts loose at the rear axle to remove the drive shaft. I tried my impact the came with my compressor. It did not work. I will be borrowing a good impact from work and hope they come loose. From what I am reading here in the postings the carrier bearing is a bitch to remove. Are there any other things that I can look foward to on this project?

 

[Daringo]

It is not that hard... go invest in a $10 breaker bar and you will be amazed at your bionic strength! Oh yea, hit it with a little PB Blaster first, it helps. I did that whole project last week. Not too bad at all.

 

[Terry]

Found the u joints at carquest. I will pick up the two for the rear shaft and swap them out. I need to remove the bed to do work to the fuel sender as well as swapping out the leafs and will change out the front then. Did not try the breaker bar. I will bring home a better impact and between that and the breaker bar they will come out. I have heard that the bolts for the leafs are just as bad or worse. I think that I might invest in a set of nut splitters.

 

[Captain Ledd]

heat.

Even a regular propane torch will help. Heat up the area and it'll break loose the loc-tite they used. Just keep the flame from blowing towards the seal. An oxy-acetelyne torch is better/faster, but I don't know if you have those.

Also, don't get it TOO hot, otherwise you mess with the heat-treatment and those specially hardened bolts are no longer specially hardened

 

[Terry]

heat.

Even a regular propane torch will help. Heat up the area and it'll break loose the loc-tite they used. Just keep the flame from blowing towards the seal. An oxy-acetelyne torch is better/faster, but I don't know if you have those.

Also, don't get it TOO hot, otherwise you mess with the heat-treatment and those specially hardened bolts are no longer specially hardened

Did the factory use loctite on the drive shaft bolts? I did not see anything about that in the book? Do I need to use it when I re-install the bolts?

 

[Bent Bolt]

Did the factory use loctite on the drive shaft bolts? I did not see anything about that in the book? Do I need to use it when I re-install the bolts?

Yes and yes.

 

[scotts90ranger]

even a simple butane torch will get them free... you would be surprised...

 

[Terry]

even a simple butane torch will get them free... you would be surprised...

A 1/2 breaker bar and a few choice words and the came loose. The middle joint was the only one that was not hosed. I will change them all out as well as the carrier bearing. I guess its bad when small pieces of bearing fall out of the caps.

 

[Daringo]

When you actually get to pulling that bearing off (or you may just want to replace the rubber), you may find the pictures on the post below helpful (pulling off the yoke with gear puller)...

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=661538

Like I said, did this just about a week ago. All to be replaced by my 1-piece this weekend. Oh well, good to learn something!

 

[Terry]

When you actually get to pulling that bearing off (or you may just want to replace the rubber), you may find the pictures on the post below helpful (pulling off the yoke with gear puller)...

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=661538

Like I said, did this just about a week ago. All to be replaced by my 1-piece this weekend. Oh well, good to learn something!

I was thinking that something would have to be removed to replace the carrier bearing but I have not removed the front shaft yet. Do they sell just the rubber piece?

 

[Daringo]

I was thinking that something would have to be removed to replace the carrier bearing but I have not removed the front shaft yet. Do they sell just the rubber piece?

I don't think so.. I just pulled it off the one I bought, and worked it over the old bearing (pull the old rubber off first, you'll get the idea). Fit like a glove. It was that or pull the actual bearing off, and it seemed fine. Seemed like a lot of hassle to replace a good working part.

 

[Terry]

I don't think so.. I just pulled it off the one I bought, and worked it over the old bearing (pull the old rubber off first, you'll get the idea). Fit like a glove. It was that or pull the actual bearing off, and it seemed fine. Seemed like a lot of hassle to replace a good working part.

I have all three bearings and the support bearing as well. The rubber does not exist on the old bearing. The truck has done its job for over twenty years and should have died more than once so I will treat it good and give it all new bearings.

 

[Daringo]

I have all three bearings and the support bearing as well. The rubber does not exist on the old bearing. The truck has done its job for over twenty years and should have died more than once so I will treat it good and give it all new bearings.

If the rubber is gone on the old one, then I can't even imagine how that must have driven. So yes, most likely your driveshaft slammed that bearing around pretty good - I would replace it.

 

[Terry]

Do I need to cover up the tail end of the trans so fluid does not come out when I remove the drive shaft or is it sealed inside?

 

[Daringo]

Do I need to cover up the tail end of the trans so fluid does not come out when I remove the drive shaft or is it sealed inside?

Well, the haynes manual said to, but I didn't and not a drop came out. I think if you were going straight into the tranny (2wd) instead of the transfer case (4wd), you would definitely want to cover it. I would, however, have something handy nearby "just in case".