don't forget to add LS additive

[powerranger262]

Uh oh.

6,000 miles on fluid. It's real pretty, looks like glitter. I F'd up. I didn't know about the LS additive, so that's just oil, that was once golden colored.

Looks like I'm going to need a new rear sooner than I thought. Do you think it's worth it to change out fluid, add LS additive this time, and try to get a few more miles out of it? I didn't want to switch it out for about another month. Just bought a house so cash is kind of tight right now, but if I have to do it, I have to do it.

 

[yyc_tbird_sc]

Friction modifier just makes the oil more slippery. This is useful for when you want very smooth action from a limited slip. If you want them to grab harder, don't use friction modifier. All that is going to wear is the clutches and shims. If you don't have a limited slip, then the friction modifier won't do anything.

Did you do a service on that diff recently? Did you change gears, bearings, put in a limited slip, etc? That amount of metal on a drain plug is something to think about. I'd pull the cover off the diff and look over everything. If you can, pull the driveshaft and check the pinion bearing pre-load. Check the wheel bearings while you're at it.

 

[powerranger262]

I'm pretty sure the pinion bearing is just about gone. I'm swapping a used rearend instead of pulling it apart. I also realized that there is additive in the synthetic that I put in there. Only thing I did to it was change the gear oil 6,000 miles ago. It must look awesome in there.

 

[01_ranger_4x4]

not using the modifier can prematurely wear the clutches and disks in your L/S, thats probably were the metal particals came from. id pop the cover off and inspect everything, you might be suprised to find there probably isnt anything wrong with your ring/ pinion and bearings.

 

[JimJa1943]

Did you hear any chatter prior to pulling the plug? W/out the modifier the clutch pack will grab and release, grab and release and you'll hear it as chatter in corners. Some oils do no need the modifier others do not (see Redline product descriptions for example). A pinion bearing will growl like crazy and that noise will transfer through to the cab.

Like someone said, pull the cover and you might be surprised. If it's the clutches because of the lack of modifier and given the debris, you'll probably have to replace the clutch pack. Let's hope whatever it is you caught it in time. A new bearing(s) or clutch pack and you'll be back in business. And BTW, we've all screwed up, sometimes for bigger bucks than others. Of course, I never have...just saying. I can also go to hell for lying...

 

[powerranger262]

I first heard a high pitched hum starting, so I replaced the U joints. It was still there. Then after having to take a trip down the highway, it got really loud. It has a really high pitched metal on metal sound to it now, with a little bit of grinding. I'm pretty sure it's toast. I don't have the tools to pull bearings and repack, and feel that it's just easier for me to pick up a used rearend from JY. Bad thing is that I was quoted $550 for what the guy says "is the only one in Wisconsin". That's the only place I have checked so far, so I will be doing a little bit more searching.
Also, does anyone know what a shop might charge to rebuild it? If it's less than $550, I might go that route.

 

[strvger]

i'm in the Duluth,Minnesota area. had 4.56 gears put in both axles and a Detroit locker put in the rear. total bill $600. sounds way cheaper that your guy really. well worth the cost as mine drives perfect! i can hook you up with a really good and reasonable drive train mechanic if you're any where in NW Wi.