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Doing Ball Joints and U-joints tomorrow on the D35 - Tips?


Sevensecondsuv

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
1,140
City
Northern IL
Vehicle Year
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Manual
So I'm going to tackle the ball joints and u-joints tomorrow. I've put a clutch in this thing, swapped out the drivers beam for one with 3.73 gears, turbocharged a ranger, and replaced a transmission in a 99 bonneville. So i'm definately mechanically inclined, I've just never taken the front end this far apart. Basically it goes like this right:

1. Remove brake caliper
2. Remove rotor and wheel bearings
3. Remove dust shield
4. Remove spindle
5. Pull out axleshaft
6. Disconnect tie rod end from knuckle
7. Mark camber cam allignment for re-assembly
8. Remove lower ball joint nut and top ball joint pinch bolt
9. Beat ball joints out of beam
10. Remove knuckle
11. Press ball joints out of knuckle
12. Press new ball joints into knuckle
13. Install new u-joints in shaft
14. Install new spindle bearings in spindle
15. Put it all back together

I've got spicer pro-grade ball joints, greasable u-joints from autozone, and timken spindle bearings all waiting to go in. And I rented a ball-joint press from autozone.

Anything else I need or need to know?
 
that spindle will most likely be rusted so tight it will require a RUBBER mallet to break free or similar tool (when re-installing use anti-seize on the mating surfaces. the spindle bearing in the inside MITE be welded to the spindle so have the angle grinder ready to cut it off DONT HIT THE SPINDLE WITH THE GRINDER! once its close to all the way through sacrifice a flat head and crack it open. check your inner spindle nut for the little nub that holds the washer between the spindle nuts in place. plan on having to fight with the slip joint if you have not given the front (4x4) a flex out in a while. dont forget the passenger side beam has a c-clip on the inside of the pig. i am rambling because i am having random issues i have had pop into my head PM me if you have issues.

86
 
to get the spindle off without wrecking it, go back to autozone and get the spindle puller, part number 27104, and the slide hammer, part number 27033. it makes doing this job a hundred times easier.
 
I found that a rubber mallet and one of those nail puller deals works real well for getting spindles off.

Remember to clean and repack the spindle bearings while you're in there.
 
Old 2x4 and a BFH.

That'll pop the spindle right off. It's work numerous times for me.
 
Well I got the spindle tool. It looks like I just thread that onto the spindle and beat on that, giving me more leverage?

Tonight we worked on my buddies dad's truck. The deal was we had to fix his truck first before we could use his shop. So we spent tonight doing a tune up and installing a new exhaust from the y-pipe back on a '94 Suburban. We ended up ditching the cat for a straight pipe with a 2.5" flowmaster 40 series knock off thrush welded muffler. The sound is about perfect, a nice rythmic rumble at idle, just enough noise inside the truck to let you know when you've got your foot into it, and a nice authoritative bark outside the truck when you step on it, all without being raspy or droning.

Tomorrow we start on my ball joints. Hopefully we finish that in time to do ball joints on my buddies 97 grand marquis....
 

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