The greater the angle the more internal friction you will have inside the shock due to leverage based shearing forces due to the axle travel not being parallel to the piston travel within the shock. Shocks mounted at an angle from wheel travel do not have the lifespan of shocks that are mounted parallel to the wheel travel.
Increasing the angle of a shock increases the additional friction within the shock and increases the pressure required to compact and rebound with the suspension. Decreasing the angle will decrease the pressure required to compact and rebound with the suspension, but increase it's lifespan.
If you are going with a higher rate shock and wish to have the ride unaffected you can decrease the angle the shocks mount at.
You always want to leave enough angle that the shock body will not rub or hit the axle tube housing at full droop (including additional room for shaking and vibrating on the really crazy off roading) and you want the shocks at exact opposite angles, if they are different the shocks will perform at different rates.
All of this should be calculated with the rate and usable travel of the shock in consideration. A high rate shock with low angle is best for longevity but affects wheel travel, a low rate shock with an increased angle allows the most travel but is easily broken and wore out.
Stock locations and stock shocks are pretty much the best balance of performance, ride, and longevity that money can buy at stock ride height. Ford spent a good deal of time on it, they didn't just slap it together. Most aftermarket stuff rated for Rangers is built around the original angles from Ford. Shocks are designed and tested at angles of varying degrees and are rated differently, When building your own, finding the balance you like can sometimes be hard. If you have to do a shock mount flip to get your shocks to reach, I advise letting the suspension hang at full droop, draw a line on the frame rail between the upper and lower mounts, remove the upper mount and flip it (reversing sides for most), keeping the mount point on the same line as stock. If you increase the ride height much, you should be sure you have clearance at the shock body and axle housing before reattaching the upper mount.