Distributor option

[ISX_15]

I don't think the vent valve is truly emissions related, but is so the carb will work properly. In other words the vent valve needs to be open to atmosphere or use the charcoal can. Personally I would use the can if I have the parts.

I have the can i can keep it. So do i just carb vent valve > charcoal can> fuel tank. Or just leave it open and vent , or block it off

 

[franklin2]

The vent system is for emissions. If you have a plain hose nipple on the carb, it goes to a vent solenoid and then down to the canister. When the engine is running, the solenoid closes. When the engine is stopped, the solenoid opens and lets gas fumes accumulating in the top of the carb and the carb bowl to vent downward to the charcoal canister to be stored.

I have noticed if you cap it, it sometimes needs a little more cranking to start on a hot day. I have also noticed if you leave it open, that after about 2 weeks the fuel in the carb has evaporated and it needs a lot of cranking to start.

Your new 2100 China carb will not have this vent nipple.

 

[AzLizard]

Im only on the stock 171 but like other fella said the 1.14 venturi should still work. Thanks guys imma do new ignition system here soon

Mine is also stock 171.alittle big but it works.
There is a 5.0 in its future.$$ permitting

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The vent system is for emissions. If you have a plain hose nipple on the carb, it goes to a vent solenoid and then down to the canister. When the engine is running, the solenoid closes. When the engine is stopped, the solenoid opens and lets gas fumes accumulating in the top of the carb and the carb bowl to vent downward to the charcoal canister to be stored.

I have noticed if you cap it, it sometimes needs a little more cranking to start on a hot day. I have also noticed if you leave it open, that after about 2 weeks the fuel in the carb has evaporated and it needs a lot of cranking to start.

Your new 2100 China carb will not have this vent nipple.

The vent system is to relieve pressure in the carb. The charcoal can is to capture the fumes for emissions.
Nit picking... I know.

 

[ISX_15]

The vent system is for emissions. If you have a plain hose nipple on the carb, it goes to a vent solenoid and then down to the canister. When the engine is running, the solenoid closes. When the engine is stopped, the solenoid opens and lets gas fumes accumulating in the top of the carb and the carb bowl to vent downward to the charcoal canister to be stored.

I have noticed if you cap it, it sometimes needs a little more cranking to start on a hot day. I have also noticed if you leave it open, that after about 2 weeks the fuel in the carb has evaporated and it needs a lot of cranking to start.

Your new 2100 China carb will not have this vent nipple.

Imma get the china 2150, thanks for the info it helps
Would it be a better option to use a non electric one way valve?

 

[franklin2]

Imma get the china 2150, thanks for the info it helps
Would it be a better option to use a non electric one way valve?

It would be best to get a carb without the connection on it.

 

[ISX_15]

It would be best to get a carb without the connection on it.

basically looking alone they're all going to have the connection unless i get one thats pre emissions if im not mistaken. I can either do a one way valve but tbh just capping it off will be fine.
so once i get the new distro, ignition coil, and the other small stuff, can the EEC-IV be ditched, how exactly do yall clean up the engine bay? will i also need to make a block off plate for the EGR? i also want to buy the new headers for the 2.8L and get rid of the recirculating exhaust gas or just make a catch can of some sort, but looking alone they're over 1,000$ for modification parts.. ill just do the ignition, seals, get it running just fine enough to save up for a 302 block...

 

[franklin2]

Isn't that what you are doing and the whole theme.......getting rid of emissions. I would get the earlier 2100 carb.

You will find out you are dealing with a very old engine out of production since the mid 80's. So no one makes hot rod parts for them and if they do, they are very expensive. As in no headers, you will have to make your own or stick with the stock manifolds.

You can take the EGR valve itself off and make a block-off plate. You will still have that ugly piece sticking out front though.

You will need to plug the air pump port on the pass side.

You are changing to a older style distributor and carb, so the EECIV and anything related to it can leave. The best way I found is to find the computer behind the kick panel and take it out. Then punch the rubber plug out of the firewall and fish the large computer plug through the firewall. Pull all those wires up and start taking things loose attached to it. That plate on the pass side fender, that thing and everything attached to it can leave.

 

[Shran]

Then punch the rubber plug out of the firewall and fish the large computer plug through the firewall. Pull all those wires up and start taking things loose attached to it. That plate on the pass side fender, that thing and everything attached to it can leave.

The big rubber plug on the wiring harness can be cut off the wires pretty easily, just make a slit with a razor blade, pull the wires out of it and then use some silicone caulk or something to glue it back together & fill in the hole in the middle. Worked great to keep the draft out when I Durasparked my old '85 earlier this year.

 

[ISX_15]

Isn't that what you are doing and the whole theme.......getting rid of emissions. I would get the earlier 2100 carb.

You will find out you are dealing with a very old engine out of production since the mid 80's. So no one makes hot rod parts for them and if they do, they are very expensive. As in no headers, you will have to make your own or stick with the stock manifolds.

You can take the EGR valve itself off and make a block-off plate. You will still have that ugly piece sticking out front though.

You will need to plug the air pump port on the pass side.

You are changing to a older style distributor and carb, so the EECIV and anything related to it can leave. The best way I found is to find the computer behind the kick panel and take it out. Then punch the rubber plug out of the firewall and fish the large computer plug through the firewall. Pull all those wires up and start taking things loose attached to it. That plate on the pass side fender, that thing and everything attached to it can leave.

For now i just want to have my truck running better then before then i can do what needs to be done as such, are you guys opposed if i just buy the distributor and coil and hold off on the other stuff until my money is right? Like i said i just want it running better then before. If i can do that with just those two, then ill change out the carb.
sorry to ask again, is it just a matter of splicing two wires? Is someone able to make me a diagram of what to cut?

 

[franklin2]

I have never hooked up or used the distributor you are going to buy. I am going to make the assumption it has the module to drive the coil inside it already, and the red wire is battery power, the black wire goes to the coil. If we assume this, then I will use the picture of my setup when I was using the GM HEI module with the DSII distributor. The picture will give you a point of reference.

You will cut the original darkgreen/yellow stripe wire going to the coil, and splice in the black wire from your distributor. point "B" in the picture below. My truck had two darkgreen/yellow wires going to the distributor, because I replaced the distributor connector a couple of years ago.

You will splice the red wire from your distributor (bat +) to the coil + wire. This is shown in the picture as point "A". You will notice it is more of a y connection, since power still needs to feed the coil AND feed the module inside the distributor.

2.8 hei conversion by D Franklin, on Flickr

 

[Shran]

You can use your existing carburetor. Many people have done that, just takes a few modifications. Read here:

? on duraspark conv re:2150a carb

Getting prepped to convert to duraspark ignition but I am confused about the carb. I have a motorcraft 2150a carb w/ feedback control. What does the feedback controller do? Also there is a pump relief valve (which pump, fuel or accelerator?) on the front next to the accelerator pump w/ a vacuum...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[franklin2]

You can use your existing carburetor. Many people have done that, just takes a few modifications. Read here:

? on duraspark conv re:2150a carb

Getting prepped to convert to duraspark ignition but I am confused about the carb. I have a motorcraft 2150a carb w/ feedback control. What does the feedback controller do? Also there is a pump relief valve (which pump, fuel or accelerator?) on the front next to the accelerator pump w/ a vacuum...

www.therangerstation.com

I did that for about a year, it ran fine. I then bought a china knock-off 2100 and put it on there. The biggest thing I noticed, I got better fuel mileage with the 2100.

I will also warn you about the original carb, and the choke on it. It only has one fast idle step on it, very fast. It also has a full electric choke which was controlled by a relay which was controlled by the computer.

1st thing to do is move the electric choke wire over to the white/black wire going to the "S" terminal on the alternator. This only has 7v on it, but with a little adjustment to the choke it will work. Someone already had moved mine over to this years ago when the relay that controls the choke went bad and they probably could not buy another to replace it.

You can then mess with the choke fast idle adjustment. Originally the choke controlled the fastest idle with the fast idle cam,, and then the rest of the fast idle steps were taken out and the little motor on the original carb took care of the rest of the warm-up period. No computer means no idle control motor and when it drops off that first fast idle step, it will want to stall on you till it fully warms up. I took and ground another notch in the cam to give me more steps, and adjusted the fast idle speed with that screw on the white plastic piece. It can be very difficult to get this correct, you may just want to convert to a manual choke.

 

[JoshT]

basically looking alone they're all going to have the connection unless i get one thats pre emissions if im not mistaken. I can either do a one way valve but tbh just capping it off will be fine.
so once i get the new distro, ignition coil, and the other small stuff, can the EEC-IV be ditched, how exactly do yall clean up the engine bay? will i also need to make a block off plate for the EGR? i also want to buy the new headers for the 2.8L and get rid of the recirculating exhaust gas or just make a catch can of some sort, but looking alone they're over 1,000$ for modification parts.. ill just do the ignition, seals, get it running just fine enough to save up for a 302 block...

Cleaning up the engine bay? My 84 was duraspark converted and the emissions and conputer stuff (predates EEV-IV) was deleted. Dad did all of this to the truck back in the 80s, it was literally only a few years old at the time. To remove the excess wiring under the hood he just cut the harness off where it exited the firewall, I don't recall if he had done the same on the interior portion of the harness of it it was just unplugged. Stayed that way until I totaled in in 2009.

I can't speak to how the 2.8L responds to modifications, dad did all the bolt ons back in the 80s when he did the duraspark conversion. Duraspark, headers, offy intake, holley 4bbl, mild porting on heads. I never knew the truck with a stock 2.8L and it was fun. That said, if you are even considering an engine swap don't waste your money on much more than it takes to keep the truck running. Aside from experience, nothing you do to the 2.8L will carry over to any other engine you may put in.

Ditch the stock carb (IMO it's not worth the headache to modify it) and install the ignition to get it running right then drive and maintain until time to swap. Those are the biggest problems with this engine from the factory, they were there from the beginning. That is what triggered the work dad did back in the 80s. IIRC he said that the ignition and emissions stuff caused the truck to shutoff on him about 7 times in less than three miles of driving. Next day he was ordering the parts to convert.

I'm speaking as someone that would like to have another 2.8L powered rig someday. I liked the engine, though I may be biased due to it being my first vehicle and family history. It just probably won't be in a Ranger if it happens.

 

[JoshT]

As for your distributor. The listing says that it has a Powerspark Electronic Ignition module. Here's the page for the Ford V6 Powerspark conversion module.

The wiring diagram included on the page, can't get much simpler that this.

I'm not sure about using it with the factory style coil, but it'll probably work. Neatly packaged and worth a shot anyway. For the factory coil connector, my 85 Ranger EVTM shows the R/LG wire being the coil positive and connected to the ignition switch, and the DG/Y wire being the coil negative.