Distributer Question - hope this isn't another stupid one

[rancheroo]

My 88 2.3 EFI ranger gave up the ghost so I bought a used 2.0 also out of an 88. The distributer in the new engine, which is carburated, has a round three pronged connector on the distributer. My old distributer has the 6 wire (I think) big oval connector.

My question is, can I simply put the dizzy out if my old 2.3 into the new 2.0 without hooking up all of the other sensors for the computer? Or will I have to find a pre-computerized dizzy to make this work?

Thanks in advance, Rick

 

[Mark_88]

I put the dizzy out of my 2.0 into a 2.3 block and it worked fine...so vise versa should work too...

 

[mikepotts]

need more info... are you trying to keep the EFI? if so, you will have a problem retro-fitting the 2.0 with the EFI intake as they have diff. ports. if you are wanting to keep the carb, just eliminate the EFIstuff and add a Duraspark unit.

the dizzy's will swap as far as the physical shape, but you have to consider the whole package.

 

[rancheroo]

Mike, I'm looking to ditch the EFI and as much of the computer controlled stuff as possible.

Rick

 

[mikepotts]

well, i am in a similar boat. i have an 88 ranger with a 2.0, a little weak but if i could have got the carb working right i would have left it alone but, the carb kit was $100.00! and it was a computer controlled carb set up (yuck). the other problem is, there is no replacement for this carb that i could find... so i bought an EFI 2.3, and the esslinger adapter so i can use a holley 350 cfm 2bbl (simple), i am also using the dizzy, oil pan, pulleys and bracketry from the 2.0. this is MY plan.

as for yours... downsizing to a 2.0 from a 2.3 I would never do. but if that is what you want... you need the complete 2.0 w/ dizzy, and a blue grommet ignition box, plus you will need to find a duraspark wiring harness to make it work. at this point you can ditch ALL the EFI stuff... as a plus, if you are carefull as to how you remove the EFI stuff, you can more than likely sell the complete 2.3 with all the EFI parts, recouping MOST of your cost for the swap.

 

[rancheroo]

Mike, thanks for the response. The 2.3 I had in the truck was tired as hell, leaked oil like a seive, ran VERY rich & wouldn't pull it's own weight in 5th gear. So I set out to find a replacement engine. I found this 2.0 out of an 88 Ranger on craigslist & the guy 'says' that it has forged pistons & a 'cam' in it. It also has headers, a Cannon intake and a weber carb, so I think that if I get it running right it'll pull pretty well.

My original question (at least my original thought) was; can I swap the dizzy from my 2.3 into the 2.0 & go, leaving the computer hooked up...without all of the other EFI sensors, etc, hooked up.

Rick

 

[Mutant Pony]

You could put the 2.3 dizzy in the 2.0 but, it won't advance. You would be far better off using the dizzy that is in the 2.0 and wiring in a Duraspark box or an aftermarket ignition box. You could even wire in a G.M. hei module for a cheap fix. There are a few here that could show you how, I think there is a write-up somewhere.

Oh, The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked.

 

[mikepotts]

Mike, thanks for the response. The 2.3 I had in the truck was tired as hell, leaked oil like a seive, ran VERY rich & wouldn't pull it's own weight in 5th gear. So I set out to find a replacement engine. I found this 2.0 out of an 88 Ranger on craigslist & the guy 'says' that it has forged pistons & a 'cam' in it. It also has headers, a Cannon intake and a weber carb, so I think that if I get it running right it'll pull pretty well.

My original question (at least my original thought) was; can I swap the dizzy from my 2.3 into the 2.0 & go, leaving the computer hooked up...without all of the other EFI sensors, etc, hooked up.

Rick

ah ha... that changes thing a bit, i was picturing a used original 2.0 like the one from my 88 ranger. but, i still think the duraspark is your best route, when you start removing the EFI components you will be crippling the EFI dizzy (i.e. no advance like M.P. said).

 

[Kenneth S]

The duraspark is your best (and easiest) option.

 

[rancheroo]

Can any of you tell me which years Rangers/Pintos/Fairmonts...had the duraspark dizzy & system (box)?

Been trying to find on the internet & have a BUNCH of 6 & 8 cyl stuff to wade through.

Rick

 

[Kenneth S]

The duraspark cameout in 1975, as far as the rest of it get the box that has the blue plastic where the wires come out of it, the coil, and the wiring harness out of any 4,6, or V8, all those parts are the same, on the power input of the box has 2 wires coming out of it just snip the connector (as much of it as you can) from the main wiring harness from the donor vehicle, if you can't find a 4 cyl duraspark just go to your local auto parts and get a reman, you'll have to pay the core charge (like $15.00 or so) if you don't have an old one to exchange.

 

[rancheroo]

Thanks guys, y'all have been very helpful. Off to the local junk yard in the morning. At least the snakes, ticks and chiggers won't be out this time of year.

Rick

 

[Mutant Pony]

The Duraspark is niether the best or easiest option. Your truck doesn't have the resistance wire for the duraspark system. If it did the duraspark would plug right in. If you get an aftermarket ignition system it comes with instructions to connect your dizzy. The aftermarket ignition will also give you more secondary ignition voltage as it doesn't use the resistance wire.

 

[Kenneth S]

The Duraspark is niether the best or easiest option. Your truck doesn't have the resistance wire for the duraspark system. If it did the duraspark would plug right in. If you get an aftermarket ignition system it comes with instructions to connect your dizzy. The aftermarket ignition will also give you more secondary ignition voltage as it doesn't use the resistance wire.

I have been doing duraspark conversions for over 20 years, I've never used a resistance wire to power them, I use a constant 12+ volt source, and have never had any problems, even my 88 2.3 has duraspark conversion without a resistance wire it works flawlessly, so it is the best, easiest, reliable, and if something where to happen any autoparts has the parts to fix it. Resistor wire is for points distributors so that they wouldn't constantly be burning the points up.

 

[mikepotts]

I have been doing duraspark conversions for over 20 years, I've never used a resistance wire to power them, I use a constant 12+ volt source, and have never had any problems, even my 88 2.3 has duraspark conversion without a resistance wire it works flawlessly, so it is the best, easiest, reliable, and if something where to happen any autoparts has the parts to fix it. Resistor wire is for points distributors so that they wouldn't constantly be burning the points up.

i would have to agree with both of you, i have done alot of duraspark conversions also, and have had problems with a few of them burning up the ignition box after working fine for a while... then the replacement sometimes lasts sometimes it doesnt... intermitent to be sure! i feel it is due to not having the resistor found in the stock harness, BUT, this wont stop me from doing another. if i had the money laying around i would use a complete MSD ignition system, but i dont so i would use the duraspark, especially since i would get a new ingition module from autozone an theirs have a lifetime warranty!