Displacement Question

[Twizzler09]

I'm going to have to bore my 302 block due to some surface rust on the cylinder walls...so I decided to go all out and have it bored sixty over. My question is, how many cubes is it going to be running after the bore? I can guess, but I'm probably wrong. =P

 

[1989GT]

310 CI, but why .060 over? I would go the least amount possible to remove the rust. If .030 will do then you can still have it bored again later in life, if you need to.

 

[projectnitemare]

Yes I agree about the .060 over. Not only do you want a little extra left over for down the road, there won't be much material left to where cooling can become an issue.

Matt

 

[stranger]

for cubes bore it least and stroke it most.most 76+ blocks are not safe @.060 unless sonic checked to varify. .040 usually max reccomended.since you need new pistons for bore. the additional cost of rods and stroker crank are 300 to 400 more.
less than piston cost

 

[gotmudd]

+1, not to mention that with the exception of the 360/390 all ford V-8's are thin wall construction and .060 over is a little extreme. if all you have is "surface" rust, i would recommend honing it first to see if that gets rid of the rust, then check your taper and out of round to see if things are still within tolerances, if that checks out , then go with a stroker kit as stranger said

for cubes bore it least and stroke it most.most 76+ blocks are not safe @.060 unless sonic checked to varify. .040 usually max reccomended.since you need new pistons for bore. the additional cost of rods and stroker crank are 300 to 400 more.
less than piston cost

 

[Will]

Best way to get cubes is with a 351. Boring is a repair.

 

[stranger]

but if you bore just stroke it too. cheap upgrade.a 4" stroke on a repaired 351 is just better

 

[Bruce]

+1, not to mention that with the exception of the 360/390 all ford V-8's are thin wall construction and .060 over is a little extreme. if all you have is "surface" rust, i would recommend honing it first to see if that gets rid of the rust, then check your taper and out of round to see if things are still within tolerances, if that checks out , then go with a stroker kit as stranger said

So gotmudd is what your saying is my 460 bored to 4"9/16 isnt recommended.

 

[baddad457]

+1, not to mention that with the exception of the 360/390 all ford V-8's are thin wall construction and .060 over is a little extreme. if all you have is "surface" rust, i would recommend honing it first to see if that gets rid of the rust, then check your taper and out of round to see if things are still within tolerances, if that checks out , then go with a stroker kit as stranger said

The vast majority of the 360/390 blocks were thin walled as well.

 

[gotmudd]

The vast majority of the 360/390 blocks were thin walled as well.

i am just giving the facts according to the shop and repair manuals that i read, it seems that the manuals i read that are year specific are wrong, or at least not very accurate, which sucks because now i don't know whether to believe my repair manuals. with the exception of a little different wording, CHILTON'S/HAYNE'S/and CLYMER'S all say the same thing. now for the big question, IF my manuals are incorrect, WHERE THE HELL DO I FIND A MANUAL THAT ISN'T FEEDING ME BULLSHIT THAT I PASS ON AS GOSPEL?

 

[Bruce]

The vast majority of the 360/390 blocks were thin walled as well.

The 360/390 block is the old 352 block and also the same block as the 428.

The manuals are most likely correct in all applications, but you must remember there gona give you the spec's which are on the safe side. I know of motors that have been bored more than what they should of, did they work? yes for what they was designed or built to do. But for common everyday use i would stick to the manual and you have to remember the manual also has to cover its butt. Like i said for all practical purposes stick to the manual. If you want to experiment then that is on you and your wallet.

 

[almostclueless]

If a old block is bored further than it's average wall thickness and potential for pitting in the jackets can handle, a wall will split and the engine will either blow steam or the engine will hydrolock. Either way, lots of work down the drain.


Find another block that will clean up at .030

 

[BLOODBANE]

I had a .060 over 302 last year and never had any problems with it. Tons of power and never had any problems with overheating(thin cylinder walls). I had the chance for the 347 and took it, is the only reason for swapping them out

 

[krugford]

The 360/390 block is the old 352 block and also the same block as the 428.

The manuals are most likely correct in all applications, but you must remember there gona give you the spec's which are on the safe side. I know of motors that have been bored more than what they should of, did they work? yes for what they was designed or built to do. But for common everyday use i would stick to the manual and you have to remember the manual also has to cover its butt. Like i said for all practical purposes stick to the manual. If you want to experiment then that is on you and your wallet.

The 352 can be bored .130" over and stroked to make the 428.

 

[baddad457]

The 360/390 block is the old 352 block and also the same block as the 428..

While they DO have all the same bolt hole locations and use the same heads, intakes and bellhousings, they're not all the same block castings. The 352's have a smaller bore (4.00) the 360/390/410's all had the same bore and usually the same bore cores. But the 428's got different bore cores to allow their bigger (4.13 bore, & which by the way, these cores have "428" cast into them, and can be seen thru the freeze plug holes)) Only SOME 360/390/410 blocks can safely be bored to 4.13. Show me a 352 block that can be bored to 4.13 and you'll have a very rare beast there.