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Disengagement Problems


trailbikerider

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
162
City
Kalamazoo, MI
Vehicle Year
2004
Transmission
Manual
Well I just finished up replacing the slave cylinder in my '94 2.3 2WD, because the truck would not disengage the clutch even with the pedal depressed. After it was installed, we could NOT get the system bled, no matter how hard we tried. So today I picked up a pre-bled Master Cylinder & Line combo at work and slapped that on. I have pedal and I'm about 99% sure the system is bled, as the slave is moving roughly 5/16". The truck STILL will not disengage the clutch, and I can't get it into any gear. What's the deal here? The only other thing I can think of would be the "fingers" on the pressure plate are misaligned, causing it to disengage crooked. Before I pull the transmission for the second time, I want to make sure everything has been looked at, bled, etc.
 
Are you sure you remembered to put the throwout bearing on the slave? Not all slaves come with them.

-PlumCrazy
 
I wish I had some input here. I have been battling the same issue for months and have gotten to the same point. You are actually ahead of me now. My parts just came today, won't get it back together until Saturday.
 
The hydro clutch on my Supercoupe would not travel through its full throw. I tried everything I could think of (so did all of the techs at the dealership I worked at.) Here's the way I got to finally move.

I removed the reservoir hose and installed a pressure brake bleeder. Tried bleeding. Still didnt help.

With the pressure bleeder still attached, pumping the pedal still didnt give me full throw.

Pressure bleeder still attached, someone pumping the pedal, long prybar through the inspection hole in the bellhousing prying on the throw-out bearing... That finally got it to work. Its been fine ever since.
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings; but I bet you now have air in the slave cylinder, from trying to bleed it before.

I am looking at the same job in an F-150. The bleeder valve twisted off, and when I diconnected the hydraulic line, fluid just ran from the line. I really don't want to have to buy a new master cylinder for my daughter's truck, but I know if I don't we will never get the air out.

Robert
 
I have to believe the air is all out. We bled it for a good 45 minutes until we got a nice stream of fluid coming from the bleeder.
 
Not sure if this is adding to, or causing the problem, but I did have a decent sized mouse nest inside the transmission (it sits all summer in a barn), and I'm wondering if the mouse piss caused the input shaft to rust a little, causing the clutch disc to hang up on disengagement?
 
I fought a clutch problem for several months. I've changed my Clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder and throw out bearing. I've also changed out my Clutch Master cylinder twice and have taken it out 5 times to bleed the system because its been so hard to change gears. Well i think i found my problem. \

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106793
 
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Reading over that, I'm not entirely sure that's my problem. The clutch pedals feels normal; plenty stiff and no slop. But it's definitely easier to check into that than it is to yank the trans, so I'll look into it. Thanks.
 
Drove it a bit tonight, seems fine until you release the clutch and put it in gear again.

Another thing I noticed is that the input shaft on the trans makes a bit of noise when the clutch isn't depressed. Not sure if the bearing is bad and causing the input shaft to wobble around causing the clutch to disengage crooked.
 

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