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differential gearing


ricardo93

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2013
Messages
243
City
pacoima, ca.
Vehicle Year
2009
Transmission
Manual
What kind of truck can I take the spider gears out for a tighter ratio? And how can I make it a locking differential on an extremely low budget?
 
1. Spiders don't change ratio
2. Welding the spiders will be the only true locker that's cheap. But if you drive it on the road at all, you'll probably hate it.
3. If you have to ask... Don't mess with a diff on your own. It's not something just anyone can work with. You screw it up and you'll hate yourself.
4. Why is this in the exhaust section? Lol

I'm not trying to come across as rude or mean, just speaking honestly. Take your time, google some stuff, ask some more questions once you figure out the basis of how a differential works. There are AWESOME links out there on Pirate4x4 about how it works and what the parts actually do.
 
Wow. I really want to help with this one, but the question displays such a wonderful lack of understanding on the subject that I am just not sure where to start.


I guess I'll start with the locker, it's easiest. Weld the spiders together. That will make it a locked rear.

The "tighter ratio" question. Well, I'm not really sure what you mean by a "tighter ratio". The spiders contribute nothing to the gear ratio of the rear end, but must be taken from a like axle (7.5, 28-spline 8.8, 31-spline 8.8, what ever you already have). The spider gears allow the wheels to spin at different speeds. The ring and pinion determine the gear ratio, and similarly must be taken from a similar axle.

Power flow through a rear diff goes like this:

Drive shaft spins pinion gear.

Pinion gear spins ring gear.

Ring gear is bolted to and spins the carrier.

The spider gears are attached to the carrier by the king pin. It is a large metal pin that runs through carrier and the two spider gears and keeps them moving as one unit.

The spider gears are toothed to the side gears.

The side gears are splined to the axle shafts.

The axle shafts have the wheel hubs and studs at the outside and the wheel bolts to them.

When the vehicle is moving straight down the road, both wheels spinning at the same speed, the spiders just drag the side gears along. When you are turning the wheels are moving at different speeds and the side gears and spider gears are spinning around each other, allowing the wheels to move at different speeds.


Does that help at all?
 
What kind of truck can I take the spider gears out for a tighter ratio?
I wish I knew what you were talking about.
And how can I make it a locking differential on an extremely low budget?
The guys above have said how to make a locker, however, if you want a cheap limited slip you can add an extra side gear shim/s to create a cheap limited slip. It won't last too long and there is added stress on the side gears and spiders so there is increased chance of the rear grenading. That said, I've done the same to a 9" and a d-28. The 9" has about 20,000 klicks, the d-28 a couple of thousand.

Richard
 
What kind of truck would you recommend to take it out of? I have a trusted friend to do the work and teach me
 
to take what out of?
spiders?
or the extra shim?

do you want lower gears? If so... you need the ring and pinion (make sure front and rear gear ratios match)
 
A locker question in the "Exhaust" thread.......I think I have a muffler bearing going out!


I am going to refrain from the normal "Use the search function" response as it is a secret to a chosen few.
 
Last edited:
I'm using my phone to post.... so its kinda difficult to track what I am in.... but I would like some opinions to make the differential a locking or locked diff, and I don't know properly how to explain but I want a stronger differential also
 
Sooo.... you don't want to change the gear ratio, as the thread title would indicate?

The cheapest way to achieve a "locked diff" is to do a Lincoln Locker. I have no pics of one, but I am sure someone else will.
 
I do want to change the ratios... and how simple is it to do a lincoln locker ?
 
You're better off going and finding an explorer 8.8 axle with 4.10 gears and a limited slip. Buy that complete axle and make it fit under your truck. It'll take a little welding to flip spring perches then you have to make the driveshaft bolt up... Several ways of doing it. Search around on TRS and you'll find threads explaining it.

The 7.5 axle is not a strong axle. I shredded spider gears twice on 30" tires while hunting. Not even trying to play offroad.
 
The 7.5 axle is not a strong axle. I shredded spider gears twice on 30" tires while hunting. Not even trying to play offroad.

Thats pretty bad luck...Not just once, but TWICE, with little 30" tires?

besides, Isn't the ring gear the weak point on the 7.5?
 
I second the 8.8 advice. I have a 31 spline with disk and it holds up against all the abuse I put it through with 37" tires. Bounced it a few times even and still going strong.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
I agree with the 8.8 swap .....welding the spider gears or using a spool are best used for rigs that never see the pavement...
 

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