Died

[catneck]

Hi all,
While in traffic at 30 degrees, my truck died. Would restart immediately, but die under load. Tried to restart until battery died. Towed home. I have replaced the fuel filter on suspicion, and now no start at all. Should I have constant fuel bleed while depressing the fuel pressure schrader valve while cranking? I do not, just a couple of bubbles.
Edit: while not cranking, I get a bleed of straight fuel.
Kind of frustrated, this truck has been bulletproof in the 2k miles I have owned it.
Thanks
Chris

 

[IMenriched]

Hi all,
While in traffic at 30 degrees, my truck died. Would restart immediately, but die under load. Tried to restart until battery died. Towed home. I have replaced the fuel filter on suspicion, and now no start at all. Should I have constant fuel bleed while depressing the fuel pressure schrader valve while cranking? I do not, just a couple of bubbles.
Edit: while not cranking, I get a bleed of straight fuel.
Kind of frustrated, this truck has been bulletproof in the 2k miles I have owned it.
Thanks
Chris

get your battery charged back up.

do you hear the fuel pump prime as you turn the key on,(not all the way over to start)??

1st suspect would be the TFI or ignition module.
2nd would be the fuel pump relay.
3rd Fuel Pressure Regulator....pull the little vacuum line off, check to see if your getting any fuel dribbling out of the line....if so..the FPR is done. & replace.

have you tried to get codes?

 

[catneck]

Charging the battery now

Will check in order, thanks.
Chris

 

[catneck]

Charged the battery -at least to 12.6v

Key in on position(not start)-do not hear fuel pump.
Now charging the battery again to bring it up more.
also referring to tfi worksheet and attempting this test.
Meanwhile, what comes next?
Thanks
Chris

 

[baddis]

hope you don't have the same issues i did. mine ended up being in the wiring between the relay and fuel pumps. the 88 has 2 pumps 1 in the tank and one on the frame rail by the radius arm mount on the frame rail. you could run a hot wire to the frame rail pump and see if it runs.

 

[johndeeregarner]

This happened to me and it turned out that the fuel pump in the tank was out. Might check that.

 

[catneck]

get your battery charged back up.

do you hear the fuel pump prime as you turn the key on,(not all the way over to start)??

1st suspect would be the TFI or ignition module.
2nd would be the fuel pump relay.
3rd Fuel Pressure Regulator....pull the little vacuum line off, check to see if your getting any fuel dribbling out of the line....if so..the FPR is done. & replace.

have you tried to get codes?

OK, Checked the voltage at the TFI. Position 3 with key on is within 10% of battery voltage. Per the how to on this site that points fault at the TFI. Now, to remove the TFI for further testing, it says I need to pull the distributor. Really? And if I do need to pull it, I apparently need a special tool to loosen the odd bolt holding it down.
And of course if I pull the distributor, I will need to buy a timing light, as I gave mine away years ago, thought I would be done with it.
Help me if I am on the wrong track, or any tips.
Thanks

 

[IMenriched]

OK, Checked the voltage at the TFI. Position 3 with key on is within 10% of battery voltage. Per the how to on this site that points fault at the TFI. Now, to remove the TFI for further testing, it says I need to pull the distributor. Really? And if I do need to pull it, I apparently need a special tool to loosen the odd bolt holding it down.
And of course if I pull the distributor, I will need to buy a timing light, as I gave mine away years ago, thought I would be done with it.
Help me if I am on the wrong track, or any tips.
Thanks

to remove the TFI you should NOT have to pull the distributor out.

the TFI is the module on the back side on the distributor housing....there is 2 small bolts, (spend the $5-10 buck and get the Ford ignition wrench/socket).

most parts stores will check these ,TFI's ,for free.....make certain they run the tests min of 3 times.

IF you already pulled the distributor out...then you might as well replace the pick-up coil...inside the distributor housing...and yes you'll need a timing light...maybe you can borrow one??

when setting the base timing (at 10deg0....be sure to remove the spout connection before doing so

 

[catneck]

Imenriched,
I will rotate the distributor and remove the module-and I already found a timing light to borrow. And I checked NAPA, they can test it (3x), and the new 1 is only $42.
Found the standard distributor wrench I've had for years works on the 2.9, do not need the Ford tool listed in the Clymer. And a thinned down 9/32"x1/4" drive deep socket deep works to remove the TFI mounting bolts once the cap is off and the distributor is rotated-no need to remove as posted correctly by Imenriched. Now to get the TFI tested(3x)
Thanks again
Chris

 

[catneck]

Update

Had the TFI tested, failed. Bought and installed a new one. Try #1-initially nothing, read other posts to find the culprit was the TFI wire connector was not fully seated. Try #2-still no fuel pump sound at run/not start. BTW, checked for voltage at the frame mounted fuel pump hot terminal (with key in run position)=0 voltage.
Fuel pump relay next?
What am I missing?
Thanks

Chris

 

[Cyberbeer]

Have you check the inertia switch? Mine simply died with no warning one day.

 

[catneck]

Inertia switch

I thought you had to be bumped for these, but I will try anything. I found a page in this site's library, will look in the passenger foot well & reset it when I get home tonight.
Thanks

 

[IMenriched]

Had the TFI tested, failed. Bought and installed a new one. Try #1-initially nothing, read other posts to find the culprit was the TFI wire connector was not fully seated. Try #2-still no fuel pump sound at run/not start. BTW, checked for voltage at the frame mounted fuel pump hot terminal (with key in run position)=0 voltage.
Fuel pump relay next?
What am I missing?
Thanks

Chris

Bad timing on this...but....did you remember to use the dielectric compound on the back side of the new TFI prior to installtion??

pretty sure there is a inline fuse to the relays, ahead of them. It might be toast too.

You've already discovered that the connections can hide potental problems, it might be wise to double check any others, as well as all, the grounds. If you haven't done so already.

you can temporarly bypass the interia switch for testing

 

[catneck]

I did use the supplied dielectric compound on the back side of the new TFI prior to installation
Found the intertia switch already bypassed-surprise.
Which relay is the fuel pump, so I can trace for inline fuse(s)?
Charging the battery and will dig deeper this weekend.

Thanks for the help, this is a great site.
Chris

 

[catneck]

Mystery solved, but something tells me this truck has seen this failure before

I tested the fuel pump relay with 1 that was still bolted to the fenderwell. The worker relay was cracked, and just laying next to the air filter. That, and the fact that the inertia switch was already bypassed, shows me this has happened before. But now the O.E. T.F.I. is in the trash.Swapped relays, and... the magic sounds from the frame rail pump! And she starts. Now, I can time it, replace the plugs, and put her back in reliable service.
It was a learning experience, but well worth the effort.
Thanks to this forum, could not have done it without your knowledge.
Chris