DD, what locker should I run?

[legoms013]

So I've been working on my truck over the summer and the next thing on the list is lockers. If i had my way I would get ARBs front and back but who has that kinda dollarage????

My question is, what locker(s) would be good for a '96 4x4, 4.0L with 3.73 gears and the factory L/S???
I dont really want to replace the whole carrier(s), but would consider it. Keep in mine this is my DD and I dont want to wear thru tires or deal with too many "side effects".

I've heard about powertrax and no slips but I dont really know what I need or is suitable, so any help is appreciated. Oh and my wheelin is usually rocks and dirt (CA).

Wow, too much babbling, thanks for reading................

 

[Ranger44]

A selectable locker is best....

A powertax lock rite is a pretty good locker for the price. The only problem is that you'll need an open carrier. You may need to swap your L/S carrier or just find a 3.73 open 8.8 to stuff in there real quick.

Most people say that the lock-rites are easy to get used to and in time you forget they are back there, but every once and a while during a tight turn they will remind you. Also haven't heard of any adverse tire wear.

 

[Hahnsb2]

No-slip is the smoothest of the lunchbox lockers and there is a version made for the 8.8 LS carrier.

 

[legoms013]

Are no-slips comparible (king of typoes )to lock rites???

And what about the front? I was thinking a lockrite for up front or maybe welded?

 

[Hahnsb2]

Yes the no-slip is made by the same people that make the lock-right (Powertrax). It's basically the same design with some extra springs and do-dads making it smoother by making the the teeth completly disengage so the don't over-run eachother. I recommend an Aussie locker for the front, however they are currently out of stock but they are $260 shipped and are the same design as the lock-right and just as strong or stronger. A lock-right will run around $300 for the fron and a rear no-slip is around $475ish last time I looked on summit racing. A few people here run a welded front and are happy, I have no personal experience with the welded front, I do really like my aussie front though. Another option is to swap in an open carrier to use a cheaper Aussie or Lock-right, I did the same swap on my rear axle (as well as the member Tottalled for his 8.8 and Aussie) but it may require resetting the backlash, mine was out of spec by a couple thou but I left it and it's been fine for 15k+ miles but I wouldn't recomend it.