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dangerranger1983 build


Well didnt really expect to get these but my cousin asked me a week ago if I wanted, then today texted me a picture of them and well for $20 had to buy them. He works at a ford dealership and got them for free. If I hadnt bought them off of him, they would have seen the scrap pile. They came off a 2010 ranger and the PO of them got rid of these for another set exactly like them due to these have surface rust on them. These retail $550 new from the stealership. I will have to mod them for my truck of course and they are a bit long since they go on an extended cab but for the price, not going to complain. Plans are to remove the paint and put bed liner stuff in its place. The top one is the passengerside and it has the rust.

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Oh ya and right after getting them, saw that my truck was about to turn over to 245,000 miles going down the road so had to snap a picture. Speedometer read 8 slow, so only doing 38mph, and it has never read right since we got it with factory tires so it may well be past what it says.

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Bought a set of Mustang convertable motormounts from a memeber off here yesturday, figured it would be easier to set the engine in the truck better that way.

Also got around to fixing the choke too, broke it a week ago and it made for hard starting in 5 degree weather too when it broke.

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YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!


I wonder what came in the mail today......

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Brown ugly postal paper off.....

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One 4 core 5.0 exploder rad with Taruas electric fan and painless wiring fan relay setup.

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Damn this thing is thick!!!!!! I see alot of cutting of the core support in my future. USed my truck key as an example.

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Was also told that my motor mounts were sent out yesturday but update when they arrive after TRS is done being updated.
 
Glad TRS is back up (so far every build thread has said that). So anyways, my convertable mustang mounts came in the other day. Thanks to Destroyer000.

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Also have to thank dasfinc for the rad. and fan setup.

Hopefully in the next few days Ill be going to the JY and getting an f150 manual tranny/transfercase.

And if all goes well and I dont spend anything else and slow down a bit on the spending for the v8 swap, I can buy my dads old ranger off my bro in law for $300. Will need another vehicle when the engine swap is underway. Brother in law fixed the bad lifter tick it had (2.8).
 
Went to the JY today and found a tranny out of a 1980 (told that by the owner). Its a 4 speed and has the np208, being an early 80's truck. Anybody know what kind of tranny it is? Dont have pics of it yet but will be picking it up either tomorrow or the next day and will get pics of it up.

Cost for it...250, not bad i wanna say. Will replace the seals and open her up and take a look at her. Reason why the truck ended up in the JY was due to a wiring short and it startred a small underhood fire so mechanical failure isnt the reason shes there.
 
Heres a picture of the tranny that was pulled for me but the front collar for the clutch bearing was broken and so was the bellhousing but this is the eexact same one that I am getting, thye have one sitting in there storage unit and it does rotate, shift, etc...all workes on it. And also for close observers, this transmission was in a truck fire too as seen by the top shifter boot, whats left of it and the reverse wiring is burnt up too.

If my tranny ID is correct the one I am getting has the aluminum top on it for the shifter meaning Im getting an np435 with the np208 behind it, same as pictured also.

As for a bellhousing, they are currently pulling a tranny from another f150 that has an I300 but same transmission and 300, 302 and 351 share the same bellhousing patterns so its all good there.

Hopefully by tomorrow or the next day I will have it.

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Got my tranny today and its safe to say its a np435 with np208. Now all the major stuff has been gotten, now its time to start on the little stuff, which will add up fast. Get seal for the tranny, open her up and take a look inside of her, etc... If it ever warms up out I may de-grease the engine too.

As you can see the winch thingy I made came in good hand.

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What is this white thing for? I assume its a sensor for turning on the 4wd light...

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I also have the bellhousing, clutch fork, slave bracket, etc...and other nuts and bolts too when I got it.
 
Guages came in yesturday. I think I want to mount them to my pillar, the sunlight over the years has taken its toll on my current ones, due to mounted on top of the dash, to where they dont want to work right (temp is busted) and my plasitc light sockets in both bit the dust years ago.

These are sunpro sport ones, all electric top to bottom except the analog dial, but still electricaly controlled ofc.

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And found out by taking a closer look that my rear is a slip yoke, good thing I didnt get two fixed yoke seals so I will have to a rear one when I go to pick up the other seal and gasket set for the transmission. All gears shift on it and the 4hi and 4lo work too. The granny first and the 4lo make a nice slow output too. I also measured that with the bellhousing on to where it mounts to the engine to the rear tail shaft output is just under 4ft long, a foot more then my current setup.

Im also going to be running all 87 setup for the clutch too, along with the same year flywheel and slave.

The shaft read 5.5 inches before falling out. I know this is probably an oblivious question but why cant you run a slip drive shaft and slip yoke? Is it due to one section is free to slid when you dont want it to?

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I have also decided to take at least my front core support off due to wanting to put it all in as one unit too. As far as the fenders, not sure If I want to take them off yet or not when I do that.
 
you seem to be spot on on the two slip's. as for the t-case output i've heard that bronco's came with a fixed rear yoke. i havent checked into it that much but that's what ive heard. that's as far as i got in reasearching a 5.0 swap for the explorer before the plans got choped in favor of better drivetrain parts.
 
The broncos of the time that had these transmissions had the D20 transfercases. This one came out of a truck, the owner of the JY had actually drove the truck around before the rear driverside leaf decided that it wanted to give way from the rear mount and go through the bed of the truck.

Well this means that I will have to get a rough estimate on a driveshaft length and go get one from a fullsize that uses a flange rear end joint and the same size joint on the rear output and shorten it to where it needs to be since my ranger one is a slip joint one.

As for the front shaft....well I have some gears turning in my head on that. I found out that the ranger BW transfercase front output shaft flanges have the same spline count as the D30 pinion does and the seal size is the same so I may see about putting a flange on it, dont know yet.
 
Got my gaskets and seals for the transmission today and also ordered my flywheel too which should be in tomorrow.
 
Forgot to post this yesturday but it arrived...

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When I was going to pick it up, I saw on my reciept that I have a $20 reward at autozone so now to figure out what I should get next...maybe the clutch slave cylinder, which will make it $10.
 
I'm looking forward to seeing you put a 5.0 under the hood. Going from factory, to TBI, to duraspark, to 5.0... This truck sees a lot of love :D
 
I'm looking forward to seeing you put a 5.0 under the hood. Going from factory, to TBI, to duraspark, to 5.0... This truck sees a lot of love :D

Thanks and the love will never stop.

Few know about me doing the TBI on it and the thread does exist around here still. I would have loved to have perfected it on mine but needed my truck to run better then it was when I had it and it being my DD, I had to give up on it and Duraspark it.

I do love this 2.8 but even in third, 60-65mph is as fast as it can go and 4th doesnt do any better:annoyed: and I want more power:icon_idea: so this is the way that I see solving the problem.:headbang:

I hope to have constant update going up to the swap.
 
Engine degreased.....sorta. At lease I can see the nuts and bolts on it now.

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A true look at how dirty it is in there....well the top end so far.
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And after
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And this is what I question...I was told that this was in a ranger before but have also read that dont use the oil bypass adaptors that point straight out due to it will hit the steering box...anybody confirm, aka, measure from the mounting surface of the block to the steering box?
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