dangerranger1983 build

[dangerranger83]

I'm running 3.73 in both my axles, the explorer axles were mainly 3.73 so it won't be to hard. Last time i went to the jy all the ones i found were 3.73 open and l/s.

But now to find the perches and shock mounts for cheap.

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[4.0B2]

2wd explorers in the 3.73 flavor are EASY to find.. it's the fronts that are mostly 3.27 it seems

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

And also so far, looks like my mileage has got better but don't like the electric choke, doesn't open up all the way even after driving awhile, it is wired up correctly but will get the volt meter and be double sure power is still getting to it.

Did you get the choke working better yet? My instructions say you want the butterflies just barely shut when cold. Works good on mine

What's up with your heater hoses? Why do they go in the fire wall in that location? Mine go in on the left of the heater/AC box.

my '87 2.0 w/ A/C heater hoses are routed the same way (???) sucks that the intake from the cowl goes back out thru the firewall under the hood, then back into the cab thru the blower motor/ac condenser, finally to the HVAC brain, but the one thing Ford did get right on the Gen-Is is cable operated HVAC controls.

My '85 is the same as dangers, the heater box doesn't matter. They stay in the same place with either box.

I love the first/second generation HVAC setup. It works and it is only a couple screws and hoseclamps to change the heater core.

Welding new perches, shock mounts and also having to change master cylinders if you do the exploder rear axle. The disk swap is basically bolt on and if you have invested into gears, lockets, etc... into your axle you can use your axle and put the disk brakes on it.

The guy with a SBF/4 speed swap AND a D30 SAS is worried about bolt in vs a little welding?

You do have to change masters with the Explorer brakes. They also changed fittings to metric (of course) so you might as well figure on changing the two lines that come out of the master as well. Not exactly rocket science and probably isn't a bad thing to change on a 30+ year old truck.

The parking brakes on the Explorer work better than the 'stangs but they do take a little rigging for cables (not sure how the mustang setup is) It is a major PITA to work on the Explorer parking brake shoes with the axles in place for the record.

 

[dangerranger83]

All my brake lines on my truck are new except the rubber line to the rear, so i will figure a different way then changing them all out.

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[dangerranger83]

And yes i got the choke working as it should. The postive wire wasn't staying hooked to the choke, the connector they sent with it was no good so i fixed that myself plus adjusted it to open a bit more. It fully closes when cold and fully opens when warm.

Other then that worth every penny.

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[chrwilkins30]

You do have to change masters with the Explorer brakes.

Not always, seems like some do and some don't. I never did and my brakes are 10x better with disc than with drums!

 

[dangerranger83]

So what are the hints tips and tricks I should know that others have when they did this swap?

Also suggestions on finding the perches and brackets, where did you all get yours?

 

[4.0B2]

Not always, seems like some do and some don't. I never did and my brakes are 10x better with disc than with drums!

I didn't.. I'm still using the bronco2's

 

[chrwilkins30]

I didn't.. I'm still using the bronco2's

I am too. If you read through some of the threads some couldn't get enough pressure until they swapped masters.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Not always, seems like some do and some don't. I never did and my brakes are 10x better with disc than with drums!

I thought mine did too... but then when winter hit and I was on packed snow I had to really mash the brakes to get the rears to quit turning so I could switch from drive to reverse and vice versa.

Turns out brakes that are heavily front biased feel a lot better than a properly setup system during normal driving. Mine spent most of the summer laid up with engine repairs/upgrades. I don't think it is pressure as much as it is volume, the later ones with ABS usually get by with it the most.

Yours might be ok, mine is not.

So what are the hints tips and tricks I should know that others have when they did this swap?

Also suggestions on finding the perches and brackets, where did you all get yours?

I got mine at Ruffstuff, they are a TRS vender. If you enter a code (in their subforum IIRC) you get a discount.

 

[4.0B2]

I used the stock perches, cut them off the bottom, welded them to the top.
if you use disc brakes, get 2 passenger side soft brake lines..

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I used the stock perches, cut them off the bottom, welded them to the top.
if you use disc brakes, get 2 passenger side soft brake lines..

+1, the Ranger softline works great the same it as it was on the 7.5 with two passenger side softlines.

You were there, the swap part of my build starts on post #56. I still haven't done the MC yet though.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111591&page=5

 

[dangerranger83]

So I will need 2 passenger side front TTB rubber brake lines (going with disk brakes)? Got pictures of this all hooked up and whatnot? I know the rubber line from the frame to the axle hooks to the divider/equalizer thing on top of the pumpkin but after that, Im at a loss of whats next.

When I go to put the axle in, I have to do it all in one hit, I dont have another vehicle to rely on to go get stuff.

 

[Robert_1967]

would it be easier and cheaper to use a axle flip kit to get the back axle mounted??


I put a Explorer axle in my Ranger, which I wanted lowered, so it ended up with a built in flip.




Robert



posted with a episode of King of the Hill.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

So I will need 2 passenger side front TTB rubber brake lines (going with disk brakes)? Got pictures of this all hooked up and whatnot? I know the rubber line from the frame to the axle hooks to the divider/equalizer thing on top of the pumpkin but after that, Im at a loss of whats next.

When I go to put the axle in, I have to do it all in one hit, I dont have another vehicle to rely on to go get stuff.

No, you want two passenger side REAR soft brake lines for a 95-01 Explorer. Rather than T in at the top of the diff like a Ranger Exporers T in at the drivers side softline. So if you ditch that and go with another passenger side soft line it stays plumbed like your 7.5 was. Two lines is assuming you replace the passenger side line that came with the axle, you probably wouldn't have to but most do while they are there.

Explorer (stock)

To fit Ranger

You also have to weld nuts on the perches to mount the softlines to.