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dana28to35 swap


4xskip

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
18
City
trail,ore.
Vehicle Year
89,b2,,96f250,,
Transmission
Automatic
so you swap axel beams and radius arms? hubs rotors calipers spindles all fit?
 
Find yourself a complete axle, hub to hub. Then it's bolts out, bolts in.

The brakes are different. You will need the right stuff for the 35.
 
do you mean mastercly? as far as the brakes being different?
 
Rotors are different. Calipers and pads should be the same 83-94 regardless if it's a 28 or 35. 95-97 D35s have a different brake setup.

Do a search, this has all been covered a thousand times.
 
4XSkip, I just did this and I never even disconnected my calipers, no brake bleeding! They are the same for both axles. The radius arms from the D28 WILL fit the D35 but if you can get the radius arms with the D35 do so. The one I got was from truck that already had extend arms that did not come with it and I had to use my D28 ones, seems to work just fine though.
 
broncoii's need to have the front drivshaft shortened when swapping d28 to d35
 
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention mine came from a 90 BII so the drive shaft was already the right length. I did put in a 1354 x-case to use that drive shaft though. Other wise the front shaft would indeed have to be shortened by approx 1 inch
 
so you swap axel beams and radius arms? hubs rotors calipers spindles all fit?

Calipers and pads will work, unless your donor is a '95-97

Hubs, rotors and bearings are different.

As is essentially the ENTIRE steering linkage.


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Last edited:
Calipers and pads will work

Hubs, rotors and bearings are different.

As is essentially the ENTIRE steering linkage.


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Clarify please;
As is essentially the ENTIRE steering linkage.
1] will work
2]are different
Thanks,

Richard
 
Well not sure about that. I put my steering gear from the D28 on the D35 because the tie rods were new. Obivously the tow in had to be adjusted but it works fine with plenty of threads still in hte couplers in my case. Again though mine came from a BII and not an Explorer so there might be a difference there. I was under the impression the D35 in the BIIs was a special size for them, narrower than the ones used in the Explorers but this one is definitely wider than the D28 'cause my tires stick out just a touch morethan they did not before and rub under loaded turns now. :sad:
 
Clarify please;
As is essentially the ENTIRE steering linkage.
1] will work
2]are different
Thanks,

Richard

The D35 steering linkage is wider than the D28 linkage.
 
Clarify please;
As is essentially the ENTIRE steering linkage.
1] will work
2]are different
Thanks,

Richard


The tie rod sleeves are the same.

the D35 outer tie rods are LONGER, the drag link is completely different.
there is a Semicircular bend to allow the main rod to avoid interference with the opposite joint, so the inner end of the LONG passenger side rod has a funny compound curve at the steering box end, if you don't have this compound curve isn't there it isn't going to work without interference.

I believe only the inner for the drivers side is actually the same.

The D28 linkage can be run out to sorta make it work but usually results in there being insufficient (for safety) threads in the sleeves, you see the D35 is about 2" wider overall than the D35 that "extra length" has got to be accomodated by the linkage.




Well not sure about that. I put my steering gear from the D28 on the D35 because the tie rods were new. Obivously the tow in had to be adjusted but it works fine with plenty of threads still in hte couplers in my case. Again though mine came from a BII and not an Explorer so there might be a difference there. I was under the impression the D35 in the BIIs was a special size for them, narrower than the ones used in the Explorers but this one is definitely wider than the D28 'cause my tires stick out just a touch morethan they did not before and rub under loaded turns now. :sad:


there is usually enough room in the D28 sleeves to screw the longer D35 rods further into the sleeve and if your tie rods were new some parts books don't list a difference.. so what the parts suppliers are doing is selling everyone D35 ends the FACTORY (or older) ends are shorter.

If you have the OE "rubber" jounts they should be screapped.
If your Tie rod ends don't have grease fittings they should be scrapped.

Frankly I find it easier (and FAR cheaper) to go prospecting for "junkyard gold"

you'd be simply amazed how many vehicles turn up in the JY with shiny new parts on them...

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