Dana 50 TTB turn radius and other thoughts

[Lignite]

I've always liked the ttb handling, but I can't seem to keep hubs (even 37780 Jeep hubs) in my Ranger, and I'm getting real tired of wheel bearings too. I may have access to a d50 ('89 f-250), and am considering taking the plunge and shoehorn it into the Ranger.

However, the d50 turning radius is abysmal in the f250. Can it be improved?

Are there any helpful tricks to the d50 needs done before it goes in? Does it need a c-clip eliminator like the D35? Any thoughts appreciated.

 

[86 slo-vo]

your going to have to do some fabricating as the d50 isnt near as close to being bolt in as say the d44 ttb. the driver beam on the 50 is much shorter so it would need to be extended to bolt into your rbv brackets and also the passenger would need to be lengthened 1 inch

 

[Snoranger]

your going to have to do some fabricating as the d50 isnt near as close to being bolt in as say the d44 ttb. the driver beam on the 50 is much shorter so it would need to be extended to bolt into your rbv brackets and also the passenger would need to be lengthened 1 inch

BUT, The d50 center will bolt right into the d44 drivers side beam.

 

[Lignite]

I realize its going to be a bear, and I'm not confident I'm up to it, its just what I've got available. But I just keep having trouble with this d35. Maybe I should start a thread to figure out how to save it.

So what I'm hearing you say is I need to keep looking for a D44? Junkyard parts are slim around here. I like the D44, have one on a 1990 f150 and haven't changed a hub or even a wheel bearing, maybe ever. What about turn radius on the D44, seems reasonale on the f150 longbox, better than the same size f250 d50? It does sound considerably simpler, if I can just find one.

Edited to add: Another concern with the short arm D50, how does that effect handling? That sounds like it would be inferior to the d35/d44 setup in 'high speed' application. What say therangerstation?

 

[legoms013]

I'd look for a junkyard D44 TTB, then narrow it. There is an article in the tech library about how to do so.

 

[gwaii]

I'd look for a junkyard D44 TTB, then narrow it. There is an article in the tech library about how to do so.

this is a good plan.then,if you want to upgrade to the d50 stuff the 44 arms are what you're going to build off of.i didn't notice any difference in the turning radius from when i was running the d44 to the d50.but trying to use the d50 arms is a waste of time.how good a welder are ya?

 

[Snoranger]

So what I'm hearing you say is I need to keep looking for a D44? Junkyard parts are slim around here.

Where is here? Maybe someone can help you find one. The last TTB D44 I got from a 94 Bronco cost me $60! That included EVERYTHING. (wheels and bald tires, radius arms, springs, beams, axles, brakes, ABS sensors, 3.55 gears, etc..)

 

[Lignite]

My apologies, thought that was in the profile. Located north east Montana. Thanks for the ideas gents, its much appreciated.

P.S. My welding is ugly and barely serviceable, but its cheap!

 

[Snoranger]

My apologies, thought that was in the profile. Located north east Montana. Thanks for the ideas gents, its much appreciated.

P.S. My welding is ugly and barely serviceable, but its cheap!

Sorry, I cant help. Your to far away. Shipping a D44 TTB would cost WAY too much.

 

[4x4junkie]

I'd look for a junkyard D44 TTB, then narrow it. There is an article in the tech library about how to do so.

Pointless swap (I'm one who should know... BTDT lol)

Swap the D44 knuckles onto your D35, it's every bit as good (the axles & ujoints are the weak link on both these axles, so any gains from the bigger D44 diff & gears is unlikely to be seen, but the drawback of less clearance and more weight is definite).

You're blowing up the #37780 Jeep hubs?? How are they failing? Got any pics?

 

[gwaii]

Swap the D44 knuckles onto your D35, it's every bit as good (the axles & ujoints are the weak link on both these axles, so any gains from the bigger D44 diff & gears is unlikely to be seen, but the drawback of less clearance and more weight is definite).

this is good advice.i was really impressed with the results when i did this on my b2.it took a beating and is still together,just waiting for the next project to use it on.

 

[Lignite]

Yes, I think I've lost both sides of the 37780 now (apologies as my memory fails after a large number of swaps and switches). I haven't attempted to redeem the warranty on the 37780's yet (pure laziness).

I will try to get some pics snapped, maybe you can diagnose my problem. I've been reading of the spindle bearings, which could definitately be worn in mine. Destruction evident in the '5 main splines' (not the 27 splines that fit over the stub shaft).

My Aussie was a little tight on clearance when installed, but it passes the tests correctly, and talked to tech at Aussie Office who said I would be ok (again, apologies as memory fails on the exact clearance).

Sounds like I need to start a new thread with help on my d35. The more reading I'm doing (a lot by 4x4junkie, thank you sir) the more it appears that others who are set up the same as me are NOT having my problems, which means I got something wrong, somewhere. This rig is my daily driver, and while it works hard in dirt mud and snow, I'm not hammering the h#ll out of it.

 

[4x4junkie]

A bad spindle needle bearing certainly would wreak havoc on any locking hub.