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dana 44 ttb in a ranger


krazykracker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
223
City
Lakeland,Florida
Vehicle Year
94
Transmission
Manual
ive been searching ,i found 4x4 junkies 94 ranger and the autofab thread.(if theres others please direct me to them)

but i want to know can i put a 44TTB in the stock(not lifted) pivot points and be even on both sides? (i want full width)
and also where will the radius arms mount? im plannig on using extended ones from an f150.


pretty much i need to know the step by step process of a 44ttb swap in a ranger
 
give Junkie a few minutes to answer.
 
The D44 mounts are 2" narrower than the D35. so you'd have to extend the pivots 1" or a bit more to get the full width.

With extended arms you should be ok to reach the frame. Custom mounts will likely need to be made. Now the thing you need to work on would be the coil mounts should you want to stay coil sprung. Coilovers would make it easier.

Here is what I have started on a project for my buddy.

P1000489.jpg

P1000490.jpg
 
so if i bolt them in the stock points theyll be narrower than a f150 but still wider than a ranger? or it HAS to be narrowed 1in?

in those picks are those pivot brackets stock or modified/move?
 
Last edited:
I'm thinking clearance between the crossmember or frame and the diff housing will be pretty tight without at least a 1.5-2" lift (such as by using STX Highrider pivot brackets). The bigger D44 diff hits a fair bit higher up on the frame than the D35 did, I had to alter the bumpstop's length because of this.

Radius arm mounts will likely need to be customized somewhat. You should be able to make it work however by swinging the arms inward a bit on the axle.
Coil buckets will need to be spaced out from the frame probably around 2" to line up with the mounts on the axle.
 
I'm thinking clearance between the crossmember or frame and the diff housing will be pretty tight without at least a 1.5-2" lift (such as by using STX Highrider pivot brackets). The bigger D44 diff hits a fair bit higher up on the frame than the D35 did, I had to alter the bumpstop's length because of this.QUOTE]

so would it be easier w/ sj brackets to give it more uptravel,would it give it alot more lift w/ full width or minimal difference?

i was wanting to keep stock points to keep it low,im trying to copy your ranger but w/ full width.

the goal is a DD/trail truck w/ prerunner styling cues
 
I would strongly suggest using a bit of lift at least like from STX brackets (IMO, 3-4" lift would be even better). You'll have much more travel this way by keeping the big D44 diff from hitting the frame as soon.

Being you're going wider, a small bit more height is not a detriment.
 
In those pictures I posted we are using STX Highrider brackets and the beams will get lower ball joint relocation to make up for the 4" lift that is planned.

With using the stock Ranger pivots the long side passenger shaft will need to be shortened roughly 2". This will net a narrower axle than an F150 but wider than a ranger. Or if you want to go with the full width you would need to add about 1" between the pivot and coil mount someplace, on both beams.

Here is a D44 in a ranger that has the slightly narrower stance and this is what I am going after.
Picture003.jpg
 
It doesn't HAVE to be narrowed, no.

If you want full width, I think this is the best way to make up for the pivot spacing difference:

IMG_0693Medium.jpg
 
It doesn't HAVE to be narrowed, no.

If you want full width, I think this is the best way to make up for the pivot spacing difference:

IMG_0693Medium.jpg

so with this set up you can use the stock 44 axels and steering link. i have been researching c+t d35. but was given a 86 full size.and now have a complete d44 sitting here and thinking hard about swaping it in .just looking at my options.
 
That picture is actually of a D35 that was extended to use the D44 axle shaft on the passenger side. But it's the same concept, Just don't have to extend it as far.

Yes it's an easy way to swap the D44 as a full width under an RBV.
 
It would be 1" each side you need to extend it.
 

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