Dana 35 knuckles on Dana 30

[the_blue_phantom]

I'm looking into doing an SAS sometime, right now still in the planning stages though. I have a Dana 30 that's already geared and has a locker in it, I would like to use that. I don't think I'll go for a Dana 44, for budget reasons and the fact that I have a Jeep Dana 30 just lying around already. The only thing I would like to see on the 30 is locking hubs, and I really can't pay $800 for a conversion kit for em. I know that a lot of guys with TTB Dana 35s will put Dana 44 knuckles and hubs on their 35s. Any idea if Dana 35 knuckles will fit on a Dana 30?

 

[NMB2]

no, they wont. You are stuck doing a costly conversion, or getting a real axle.

 

[t120r]

There is a benefit to doing an SAS with a D30. WHEN it breaks, putting in a D44 is easy. I have a FW '79 D44 in my '90 Ranger and it looks like a beefy unit... Until you look at the axle shafts. I can't imagine anything smaller on a RBV.

 

[dangerranger83]

I like having a live at all times front axle. Push in the clutch, even while driving, shift into 4HI and keep driving and vise versa.

 

[t120r]

To go from a D35 TTB to a Jeep D30, you don't gain anything. In fact you lose as the solid axle doesn't ride or handle as nice. My 1990 Ranger rode like a caddy, really nice. Then I did the sas and it doesn't feel near so good. Other SASed rigs I've been in have been the same. But everything is for a reason right? Lifting & tall tires need a beefier axle that doesn't get all wonky when angles are changed. But really, sell that D30 to a Jeep guy and use something worth the effort. An SAS isn't easy to do, so if you're gonna do it, make sure it's worth the effort. A D44 up front should be fine for most people. If you offroad a lot, then you may want to go bigger.

 

[dangerranger83]

One thing I dont recommend is going from a TTB D35 to D30. But I have seen trucks that became more off road capable doing the swap too.

 

[the_blue_phantom]

Thanks for then input guys, i just wanna get rid of that IFS more than anything. The wheel travel sucks so bad. I'll look into my other options, and see what me and my budget can come up with.

 

[4x4junkie]

The D44 from a '80s Jeep Wagoneer is a good option to look for (just stay away from ones having a CAD device on it).

Another common option is to take a '70s F-150 D44 axle and narrow it 6" by cutting the long side shorter (not overly difficult to do in a home garage, though the axle shaft will need to be sent out for resplining, or you could use an aftermarket early Bronco shaft in the shortened housing also).

 

[the_blue_phantom]

Actually, why wouldn't it work? Sorry NMB2, just curious. I mean, they have the same size U-joint at the stub shaft. The ball joint mounting locations on the Dana-30 would have to be reamed to fit the dana 35 ball joints. Is there something else I'm not thinking of?

 

[4x4junkie]

Axle "C" being a radically different width? Alignment of the knuckle with the housing so the shaft doesn't bind?

A big huge Supercab Ranger is a lot of weight for a thin D30 axle housing to be carrying anyway. I'd keep the IFS until getting a D44 to put under there (sell the D30 for some $$$. Having a locker & gears should give it a little bit of value to the right Jeep person).

 

[the_blue_phantom]

Ah gotcha. Didn't realize that, as I've never really seen the two in comparison with each other. Thanks for clarifying!

 

[miller time]

broncograveyard.com has lock outs with out a conversion for $70. put/ Mile Marker Stainless Supreme Hubs for Dana 44 /in the seach box it says it works for both 44 and 30

 

[4x4junkie]

Not for the D30 in question here.

The conversion kit to locking hubs on a unit-bearing D30 is over $700 last time I checked (and that was a long time ago.. guessing maybe $900 now?).