Dana 35 Axle beam Pivot Bushings

[legoms013]

The beam does twist on the bushing to some extent from the radius arm twisting it (this is in addition to pivoting up/down), so in theory a softer bushing should allow it to twist more freely.
However I have urethane ones on mine, and I have not found them to restrict the flex to any extent that I can tell.


I would say if your sleeves are hosed from the bolt going through them, get the ones with sleeves. If your sleeves are still good, then run a 1.5" hole saw through them to get rid of the rubber, followed by a minute or two with a propane torch, then use the JD sleeveless bushings.

Sounds like a plan I believe the sleeve to be fine, but I will have no way of knowing until I pull it all apart. It could be fubar

I like the new avatar pic Junkie btw.

 

[4x4junkie]

Thanks. I figured with the new larger limits a new one was in order.

Good luck with it.

 

[Yellowsplash]

I replaced mine with some energy suspension polyurethane bushings which came with a new sleeve. They were a bitch to remove, but I used a balljoint/U-joint C-clamp press from advance auto's loaner tool program and a BFH. The new ones went in much easier.

 

[legoms013]

Did you remove the beam from your truck or leave it in there?

 

[ChrisR1S]

I removed the beam since i did mine when putting my lift on. Personally I think it would be a PITA to do it under the truck assuming you're going to replace the stock sleeve. If you're just gonna burn the bushing out and reuse the sleeve thats already in there, i would just unbolt the pivot point.

 

[legoms013]

Hmmm, sounds like a PITA.

I was hoping I didn't have to remove the whole beam, but sounds like I might. I'll go ahead an order the James Duff sleeveless ones, maybe they'll be a little easier to install.

 

[legoms013]

Tore into it tonight. Got the old one out....hole saw and torch. But getting the new one in has proven to be an absolute feat.

No such luck, gonna resume tomorrow.

Shoulda went sleeveless for sure looking back at it...reason I didn't was b/c James Duff and every other 4wd online store wanted $10 fricken dollars to ship it too me. Bullcrap well I guess it would have been worth it, I would have been done by now.

 

[Yellowsplash]

Did you remove the beam from your truck or leave it in there?

I already had the beams out from under the truck while repainting my frame and doing a bunch of other mods at the same time. Figured if I was in there I might as well do it right the first time...

 

[Lrpalo]

I replaced mine with stock ones since I had 315k on my truck when I put in the lift because i also figured I will have done the SAS before they go bad. Throw the new ones in the freezer before putting them in and it will make them slide in easier.

 

[legoms013]

Well I replaced it...and I'm still having a tracking problem. I must have jacked up a tie rod winching, but I cannot tell from eye...

 

[86 slo-vo]

im thinking of trying the uniballs on my 44 beams when i get going...

 

[randallmain]

Go Poly...

Energy comes with sleeve and all, just need to be pressed in. I used 1/2 all thread and pipe. Worked like a charm for like 5 bucks!

 

[bobbywalter]

when pulling the sleeves complete, take a cut off wheel and cut/grind the sleeve ends flush to the beam.

the all thread/pipe nipple method with that is ideal. and of course throwin the new one in the freezer a few hours before the project starts is a big help too.

 

[randallmain]

yep...

ah, very true. Also allows job to be done w/out removing beam completely as long as you can keep it from kicking out.