Dana 30 Question

[Ranger44]

I'm flirting with the thought of a Dana 30 swap. I have a few of questions:

1). Is there a Jeep D-30 comes with manual hubs, or are they all vacuum operated? What does it take to convert to manual hubs? What years of axles work best?

2). I was thinking lifting a D-30 would be cheaper than a TTB D-35. Would this be true? I'm only looking to lift it 4" and want extended radius arms. But I also thought I heard that you need to lift it at least 6" for clearance issues.

3). Is the steering simular to a Ranger?

I am basically weighing cost of modifying/ maintaining, and simplicity of the axle and components (brakes, bearings, steering, etc.)

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

(1)There is no Jeep D30 with manual hubs, they are either a full time live axle or they have the center axle disconnect that is operated by vacuum. They all use sealed unit bearings. There are some kits out there from Warn i believe that converts them to manual hubs.

(2)A 4" lift can be had for around $500 or cheaper for the TTB. The d35 is stronger than the D30 and has bigger U joints.

(3) yes the steering similar to the ranger on the coil spring d30's, they use an inverted Y steering set up. There are Hi steer kits available for the d30.

I'd say lift the TTB, and leave the D30 under the jeeps

 

[hitech_hick]

(1)There is no Jeep D30 with manual hubs, they are either a full time live axle or they have the center axle disconnect that is operated by vacuum. They all use sealed unit bearings. There are some kits out there from Warn i believe that converts them to manual hubs.

CJ dana 30's came with manual hubs, but they are a different bolt pattern (5 on 5 1/2 I think)

(2)A 4" lift can be had for around $500 or cheaper for the TTB. The d35 is stronger than the D30 and has bigger U joints.

They use the same size u-joints. The dana 30 utilizes unit bearing hubs, so there is no need for manual lock outs, this would eliminate a weak point of the dana 35 (just playing the devil's advocate here)

(3) yes the steering similar to the ranger on the coil spring d30's, they use an inverted Y steering set up. There are Hi steer kits available for the d30.

I'd say lift the TTB, and leave the D30 under the jeeps

I wouldn't bother to ditch the TTB for a D30, as stated above, there aren't enough reasons to justify it.


hick

 

[rickcdewitt]

d30's are weak,the axle tubes bend easy and you will get worse mileage from the constant drag of the axle and driveshaft. the early d30's had smaller u joints than the tj d30's

 

[Ranger44]

Ok, well that's all I wanted to know. I was thinking in the long run it may be cheaper to lift/use the Dana 30. But when considering the swap to a one peice shaft, manual hubs, and much of the custom work I'll have to do to make it work, i just don't see a justification of it any more. I think I'll just stick with my good ol' TTB.

 

[hitech_hick]

d30's are weak,the axle tubes bend easy and you will get worse mileage from the constant drag of the axle and driveshaft. the early d30's had smaller u joints than the tj d30's

The smaller u-joints of earlier D30's is an irrelevant point since new shafts (bigger joints) is an easy junk yard swap. The rest of your points though are on target.

Ok, well that's all I wanted to know. I was thinking in the long run it may be cheaper to lift/use the Dana 30. But when considering the swap to a one peice shaft, manual hubs, and much of the custom work I'll have to do to make it work, i just don't see a justification of it any more. I think I'll just stick with my good ol' TTB.

Personally (and this is what I am doing with my rig), wheel the daylights out of the TTB until it has nothing more to offer you, then ditch it for the upgraded axle of your choice (personally I am going with a HP D60).


hick

 

[Tweeder]

'course, if you get real lucky, you can swap in a D30 for less than $300 total cost. i've got everything i need short of gears and track-bar for less than $200 so far. YJ housing with TJ shafts, radius arms, 4" spring....i've yet to get the 4.56s (cheapest new) and build the track-bar (adjustable)

 

[Ranger44]

I don't offroad hard enough to beat the hell out of my TTB. The TTB is already under there and in most ways it has advantages in strength, and design. Maybe I just got the notion that the TTB would be to much of a pain to work with, but I feel that by understanding it more and knowing how to tweak it, I'd be able to do more with it for less money. Not to mention I'll have something different than most 4x4's. Most people don't even bother with TTB and say %$^# it and dump a solid axle under there. They don't take the time to play with it and learn about it. I'm sorry I ever doubted you TTB.

 

[Tweeder]

yeah, if you ain't beatin' the piss out of the TTB, leave that POS alone

 

[hitech_hick]

I don't offroad hard enough to beat the hell out of my TTB. The TTB is already under there and in most ways it has advantages in strength, and design. Maybe I just got the notion that the TTB would be to much of a pain to work with, but I feel that by understanding it more and knowing how to tweak it, I'd be able to do more with it for less money. Not to mention I'll have something different than most 4x4's. Most people don't even bother with TTB and say %$^# it and dump a solid axle under there. They don't take the time to play with it and learn about it. I'm sorry I ever doubted you TTB.

That is what I was thinking about with mine, but last season was rough on her. I blew up 2 warn hubs, threw the caps on the u-joints, bent the TTB housing back far enough that the third member wouldn't seal again with out a lot of coaxing (and RTV) and I tore the passenger side radius arm free from the cross member. On top of that I go through a set of wheel bearing each year, and my ball joints are shot after 3 years (running 15x10 rims with 3 5/8ths back spacing). I am thinking after this season I am ditching it once and for all (the TTB, not my truck).



hick