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Damaged outer tie rod


mazdamama

Well-Known Member
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Jul 20, 2008
Messages
285
Age
35
City
reno/sparks Nevada
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
one of my outer tierods ends is shot on my 94 4x4, and its really doing a number on my tires. is this a part that i could buy at an auto parts store or is it something i gotta go to the stealership for.
 
one of my outer tierods ends is shot on my 94 4x4, and its really doing a number on my tires. is this a part that i could buy at an auto parts store or is it something i gotta go to the stealership for.

You can definetely avoid the stealership. You can buy it at any autoparts store, then just take it to any local mechanic. But you can also call the dealer and ask how much they will charge... I always like to call just to have a good laugh :icon_rofl: after I know how much I saved with the local mechanic :icon_thumby:
 
tell me about it. my stalership wanted $500 for the stupid rubber filler neck hose on the gastank, so i went and found one brand new online for $80 brand new, only difference is its not california certified, but who checks for that anyway.
 
I've done more work with the SLA rangers, but looking at the pictures:

It looks like you can replace the driver side TRE with out having to replace the entire tie rod. Should just be a few bolts and then treading out the end and threading the new one in. Then getting an alignment, but at least they won't charge you out the ass parts and labor.

If the actual tie rod is bent, I've gotten lucky ordering parts from Advanced Auto that come with much more then you'd excpect. (For my 79 Bronco, I bought just a tie rod end and it ended up being the entire tie rod minus the adjustment sleeve and pass. side TRE) You might be able to just replace it for cheap too.
 
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Count the turns to get the old one out, and if it is the same length as the new one (it should be) turn it in the number of turns, no alignment required.

Worked great on my '85, available for about $20 a side from about any parts place. I would go ahead and do both sides while you are in the mood to do it, it is a pretty simple opperation.
 
Do it NOW.
Yesterday my Ranger had a outer tie rod break on the highway. I was four feet into the next lane instantly - I was very lucky that no one was next to me and feel very fortunate that I got off the freeway safely.

The point is that ALL components count. Ford doesn't put grease fitting on their parts, but they still need attention. Please be careful.
Want another reason? It cost me $780.00 for inner and outer tie rod repair at a shop (I asked for all to be done for safety - changing lanes in an instant is not fun) look up the part prices and tell me if that is expensive. When you are on the road - you pay what they want. This was at a non-dealer shop; my local dealer is $125.00 per hour.

Measure a point in front of the tire and at the back of the tire; or any place that is easily repeatable. Then do one side at a time and you should be ok. An alignment at a shop may be worth it if you drive a lot.
 
one of my outer tie rod end is shot on my 94 4x4, and its really doing a number on my tires. is this a part that i could buy at an auto parts store or is it something i gotta go to the stealership for.

Pay the extra money for the good tie rod in auto parts shops. I saved 20 bucks not realizing that the other one is self sealed like the OEM. Now I have them greased every year.
 
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Pay the extra money for the good tie rod in auto parts shops. I saved 20 bucks not realizing that the other one is self sealed like the OEM. Now I have them greased every year.


Greased once a year? I grease all zerk fittings on my truck every oil change. I've got over 200k on the factory tie rods, and they are still tight.
 
its really sad that ford stopped putting zerks on their balljoints. theyre cheap joints to begin with, why not put a stupid nipple on there so we can get the most out of them?

anyway, i have had all my joints replaced with grease-able ones. its not fun to get the lower balljoints out, but its worth it when the truck hops over bumps like its a new truck.

but i have not done my outer tie-rod joints. they are still factory at 200k miles- the trick is to get a needle greaser and poke a hole in the rubber and squirt grease in that way. the hole in the rubber just means you have to grease it more often, but once a year is fine. just dont do it less often then that.
 
rockauto.com you can pick up the high end spicer parts, for the same price as autozones cheap junk.......and if you google rockauto coupon, you just might save 5-10%

jack up truck, put stand under
pull off tire.pull out cotter pin,of TRE
*IF i rember right, its a 19mm or 3/4 nut
pullthe nut off, wack the steering arm on the knuckle a few times, get the TRE to pop out of the tapper.

count how many threads, or measure, how far the TRE is away from the Adj sleve,
15mm nut on the ADJ sleave, turn it out.

get new part, install. pretty simple.

depening on your skill and luck you may need a alighment afterwards to re set toe
 

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