d35 or d44

[mongoose289]

I have the stock d28 in the front of my 86 ranger along with a 302 and 35" tires. Would a d35 hold up? or would a 76-77 bronco d44 be better?

 

[4x4junkie]

Given those two choices, the D35 (with Jeep hubs) wins hands down.
You could swap shafts with bigger u-joints into the Bronco axle and this would then match them up pretty close (you do get bigger brake rotors with the 44 though, although those same rotors can be swapped onto the D35 too with a knuckle swap). The D44 rotors come with a larger lug pattern however (you'll need to mod your rear to match it up).

You might look at this thread, the 35/44 thing was just being discussed pretty heavily here
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29408

 

[wahlstrom1]

I vote D44 simply for less moving parts and higher durability given the weight of a small block 4wd excab. Also, solid axle steering holds up a little better once you put weight on it.

-andrew

 

[mongoose289]

My truck is in need of new tie rods and ball joints and i dont want to put the money in the d28 thats in it. I already have the d44 housing, but it will be a long time before i have the money to do the axles and gears in it.So after it was in the truck it wouldnt have anything in it. Would i be better off going to the junk yard and getting a d35 thats complete, bolting it in and having a driveshaft made?

 

[4x4junkie]

I guess it would depend on how much work you want to deal with and how long you can be without your 4WD.

I would say generally the D35 is the better option, simply because it does bolt in, maintains your wheel lug pattern, and is strong enough for most uses. If you can find one in good shape, it will certainly be the easier option (especially if you can find one with your current gear ratio).

The D44 (sas) is going to require a lot more work (fabbing up brackets, sourcing parts from the junkyard, setting up new steering, and so on & so forth). You can't overlook the costs for all the little things that add up either (bushings, joints, brackets, brake hardware, steering, all the nuts & bolts, etc.).
Once it's all in and installed however, making adjustments relating to the wheel alignment is easier since the camber is no longer related to the ride height. Steering geometry remains a critical aspect for having decent road manners though.

 

[mongoose289]

i picked up a d35 yesterday, and put it in today. I need to replace my brake lines. Should i get lines for the 91 explorer the axle came from, or for my 86 ranger?

 

[metalmacguyver]

I just checked and the part numbers are not the same as I thought they might be. I would go with the exploder lines to try first because they are cheaper.

 

[mjonesjr]

i picked up a d35 yesterday, and put it in today. I need to replace my brake lines. Should i get lines for the 91 explorer the axle came from, or for my 86 ranger?

If you are getting aftermarket extended lines, then it will not matter.

If you are getting stock lines, get the ones for your '86 Ranger as the Explorer fittings at the hard line might be a little different, but the caliper mounts are the same.

 

[4x4junkie]

The difference is in the vehicle, not the axle (this applies even with aftermarket stuff).
Your D28 calipers are identical to the '91 D35's and will swap between axles.

 

[mongoose289]

what was the year the calipers changed?

 

[4x4junkie]

'95

 

[mongoose289]

So the only difference between the calipers is where the hose bolts to? top of the caliper for my ranger, side of the caliper for the explorer.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Depending on how much lift you're running to clear those 35s you might want to go with a set of extended lines.

Foothills Off Road on EvilBay has 27" long hoses with the standard hard line fitting and a 3/8th banjo fitting on the caliper end. They're only 70 bucks. I havn't had any issues with them yet

 

[mongoose289]

im only running a 4" lift and 3" body lift.