cv shaft replacement

[ForOffRoadDriving]

ok, i knowthis isnt the right forum for this, but i need an answer to this fast. so i work at a parts store and was recently volunteered to do a front end overhaul on a customers ranger. not too bad since i like to work on rangers, but im not experienced with 1998 & + rangers and this is a 2000. anyways, i have removed the vaccum hubs, the tie rods, the upper control arms, the steering knuckles, and the drivers side cv shaft. i have got the passenger side almost out but it hits the shock on on that side. if i remove the shock, i suspect the torsion bar will roll the lower control arm down and i wont be able to get the shock reconnected without removing the torsion bar adjuster bolt and then reconnecting the shock. im also having trouble with pressing out the lower ball joints, but i think some heat will free them up and that should be that. any advice would be great. i have to go back and finish this job on monday and if it wasnt for this driveshaft hang up i would have probably finished this tonight. ahhhhhh F***ING FORD! no, i dont really mean it, but i know weve all said that. any help would be great guys, thanks in advance for your vast knowledge of all things ford.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

oh yeah, its a 2000 ranger with a 3.0l and its green.

 

[JohnnyO]

I've changed the front shocks on my Sport Trac, same front end, nothing moved from full droop when I removed the shocks. But then I didn't have the knuckles off. Just if they're gas shocks you've got to compress it and stick it back in real quick before it expands all the way.

I can't link it directly but there is a Member Project at www.mysporttrac.com. Go there then click Members, then click Projects. There is a fairly new one that should be right on the first page called "CV/Half-Axle Replacement". Hope this helps.

 

[camma83]

u are having issues getting the cv shaft out right? On my buddys 02 and on my 04, i Just removed the hub assembly, take off the brake caliper, rotter and remove the 3 bolts holding the hub assembly on, now you should beable to slid the cv shaft through where the hub assembly was, so you. I Did my buddys in 30 mins. That is if 2000 is the same as 2002.....

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

i have the cv shaft hanging out of the axle housing, but the inner joint is hitting and not clearing the shock by about 3/4 of an inch, so i guess i need to know if i can take the shock off with out the upper control arm or the steering knouckle connected. it seems to me that the shock is the only thing keeping the torsion bar from unloading since the shock is fully extended right now.

 

[camma83]

so how is the progress?

 

[c_note]

if the sway bar is still connected you should be alright.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

you know i never thought of putting the sway bar links in so that i could take the shock out. thats why i like this place, so much knowledge and experience at a mouse click away. suprisingly this job went much easier than i thought it was going to go, but i have to remember that it is only 7 years old and not as rusty as the shit i always work on. when i go back on monday im going to bring more jack stands and both of my floor jacks, so i can lift and hold where i need to. on another note, does any one know where to get the vaccum hubs other than the dealer? the guy im doing the job for took the passenger side off before i got there without the "special" ford tool and he busted it in half. i put the tool on the drivers side and gave it a slam with the slide hammer and it popped right out. ridiculous price for a one time use puller ($80.00 employee price), but it worked so good. once i get that cv shaft out i have to press out the lower ball joints, put the new ones on, put hte knuckle back on install the new uppper control arms, change the tie rod ends, and then put the wheel bearing hubs back on and stick the hubs back on. then collect my monies and go get some cold ass beer.

 

[c_note]

if your saying it cost $80 for one hub, just ask the just if you can replace those for a set of AVM manual hubs for like $110 and wont have any problems with that anymore.

 

[4x4RangerGuy]

The vacuum disconnects are a dealer only item unfortunately.

 

[JohnnyO]

You are better off just eliminating the vacuum hubs because they are unreliable anyway. There are two ways to do it, both listed in the TRS Tech Library.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

thats what i thought, the hubs are a dealer only item. there is a special tool that takes those hubs off, it has six little wires that slide under the lock tabs and then clips on the hub. then you take this piece that looks like a 3 jaw puller and screw a slide hammer into it and pull it. i bought the tool which cost me 80$, but the guy who owns the car took one side off while drinking, the day before i started helping him, and used too much force with a screw driver or something? anyways its not reusable, so i have to find him a new one. stupid ass technology, solid axles didnt ride THAT rough.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

thats what i thought, the hubs are a dealer only item. there is a special tool that takes those hubs off, it has six little wires that slide under the lock tabs and then clips on the hub. then you take this piece that looks like a 3 jaw puller and screw a slide hammer into it and pull it. i bought the tool which cost me 80$, but the guy who owns the car took one side off while drinking, the day before i started helping him, and used too much force with a screw driver or something? anyways its not reusable, so i have to find him a new one. stupid ass technology, solid axles didnt ride THAT rough.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

.

 

[almostclueless]

The PVH system has two flaws.....trying to keep a vacuum seal in that whole area (it was moronic that they even tried), and the design of the vacuum solenoid. I gave up on mine, removed the vacuum supply to the solenoid, and set the locks manually.


The hublocks come off pretty easy. If the previous owner broke one getting it off thats pretty funny. I can put a screwdriver between the tab area and the shoulder of the hub itselfbehind the hublock, turn it 90 degrees, and easily pop it off.