custom ttb steering questions

[97-cobra/ranger]

I recently just replaced all 4 of my ball joints and installed adjustable camber bushings. Now I'm needing to replace my steering linkages to get an alignment. My truck in a 97 with the ttb front end and has a skyjacker 6" lift. I have a drop pitman arm installed but its only like 2". What I'm wanting to do is get some dot tubing and some weld in bungs to make my own linkage and use stock new ranger tre. Are all tre thread sizes the same? I'm not seeing anywhere that offers the bungs and specifies what the thread pitch/diameter is for the bung, just that its for the steering linkage. Does anyone know what the thread pitch/diameter is for stock ranger tie rod ends? I'm really not interested in doing the gm 1-ton tie rod ends. My truck is only on 33s and I don't beat on it when I'm off roading.

 

[BrucesBlack]

You need the FA600 Drop pitman arm , I would Suggest Getting the Supper Runner Steering Kit as well .

 

[97-cobra/ranger]

I don't want to spend that kinda money when i still need to replace all my steering joints and can make the steering setup that should work much better than what i have now. Im wanting to do something like this, but use tre instead of heim joints at the knuckles and pitman arm. Would this not be a good way to do it and help eliminate(or greatly reduce) bumpsteer?

 

[BrucesBlack]

That Is a Good Setup And I see where your Coming from About $$ .

 

[brinker88]

I used the set up above known as Stonecrusher steering. I modified mine to use 1 ton t.r.es. Look through my build if you'd like some ideas.

 

[97-cobra/ranger]

Yea now Im just wondering if i buy the weld in threaded bungs from like ruff stuff if the threads are the same as ranger tre.

 

[brinker88]

Ranger threads are something like 14 MM (metric). The chevy "1 ton" T.R.E's are 7/8-18. Drill your knuckles/pitman arm out to 7/8" and use the tapered insert ruffstuff offers OR just buy a reamer and ream them out. That's about the only way you'll get to use T.R.E.'s on a custom application.

good luck.

 

[97-cobra/ranger]

So if i use heims I'll have to drill it out anyway, won't I? Looks like I won't have a choice but to use the chevy tre. Is there any way to use a tre instead of a heim where the driver's side linkage bolts to the saddle on the drag link?

 

[brinker88]

I'm sure you could figure something out. Take a piece of 1" or 3/4" thick steel, shape it to the DOM, weld it on, and drill/taper a hole for the T.R.E.

 

[bobbywalter]

I recently just replaced all 4 of my ball joints and installed adjustable camber bushings. Now I'm needing to replace my steering linkages to get an alignment. My truck in a 97 with the ttb front end and has a skyjacker 6" lift. I have a drop pitman arm installed but its only like 2". What I'm wanting to do is get some dot tubing and some weld in bungs to make my own linkage and use stock new ranger tre. Are all tre thread sizes the same? I'm not seeing anywhere that offers the bungs and specifies what the thread pitch/diameter is for the bung, just that its for the steering linkage. Does anyone know what the thread pitch/diameter is for stock ranger tie rod ends? I'm really not interested in doing the gm 1-ton tie rod ends. My truck is only on 33s and I don't beat on it when I'm off roading.

I don't want to spend that kinda money when i still need to replace all my steering joints and can make the steering setup that should work much better than what i have now. Im wanting to do something like this, but use tre instead of heim joints at the knuckles and pitman arm. Would this not be a good way to do it and help eliminate(or greatly reduce) bumpsteer?

simply put the best setup for you and most cost effective and simple is the fa600 pitman arm.

the bump steer....or what we call bumpsteer in your case will be the same as stock when going with the right arm. you have the wrong arm for a 6 in lift.

 

[97-cobra/ranger]

Buying a $200+ pitaman arm, both new stock tie rod ends and dragling( they're wore out) is better and/or cheaper than doing that stone crushed style steering linkage? Didn't know if u knew all mustang steering components are wore out.

 

[BrucesBlack]

If you want the Right Steering Geometry you want that FA600 Drop pitman arm as I said in the First post ! .

 

[bobbywalter]

Buying a $200+ pitaman arm, both new stock tie rod ends and dragling( they're wore out) is better and/or cheaper than doing that stone crushed style steering linkage? Didn't know if u knew all mustang steering components are wore out.

if you replace the rod ends with tre's maybe.


on amazon its 186 shipped.....i usually find good steering componants in the junkyard....have to pic and choose but nearly new shit for a complete system for 15-20 bux is what i was doing...


i have custom shit now.

 

[4x4junkie]

The FA600 drop arm certainly is an easy solution, Since you say you're not using it that hard offroad, it'll probably work fine for you, but certainly there are some other options (if you're at 6" of lift, the FA600 would still leave you with a 2" disparity anyway).

Ranger TREs have a M22-1.5-R thread (passengerside), and a M20-1.5-L (driver side). I have yet to see anyone offer threaded bungs that accept those threads, everything seems to be 7/8"-18 or 1"-18 (betting metric thread taps in those sizes are not easy to come by either).

I continue to hear complaints about continued bumpsteer with the Stonecrusher style setups. Though I have not run the setup personally, my gathering is about all it does is eliminate the extreme tire wear (toe-in/out variations) you'd otherwise have with the stock linkage & too-short pitman arm, but little else.

My suggestion is to just get the Superlift Superrunner steering kit (K-link style) and then modify it by dropping it's centerlink down to where it belongs (same plane as your axle pivots).
It is a shame you have to buy something brand new and then hack it up, but even in spite of that it still seems like the easiest option that actually works well.
Alternatively you could build something from scratch basically copying Superlift's design, and maybe improve on it in the process (such as lengthen the upper tube of the idler arm so it won't deflect on it's bushings as much).
I've also seen a couple guys build setups that are like a hybrid of the K-link and a crossover type setup (similar to a swingset style setup, but with a centerlink & idler arm instead of swingers).
Two examples here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119782
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337182

IMO, I'd just keep it simple and center-mount the tierods. That's how mine is and I've had no complaints with it.

You need the FA600 Drop pitman arm , I would Suggest Getting the Supper Runner Steering Kit as well .

Cannot use both the FA600 drop arm and the Superrunner kit... One or the other.

 

[97-cobra/ranger]

This steering issue is enough to make u wanna swap to a solid axle. I appreciate all the ideas. I guess Im gonna have to do some more research and see what i can come up with. Tire wear us #1 priority, bumpsteer is #2. If i can reduce the bumpsteer, i can live with that.