2.3L ('83-'97) Cruise control out

[xsaylr]

CC doesn't work on my '97. The light doesn't illuminate at all, even after replacing the buttons. Fuse is good, and the cable is still in place and looks OK. Servo isn't bound up. Picked up a replacement deactivation sensor, supposed to be for this model. It'll screw in, but the sensor connector is different, so I couldn't use it. I've seen a selftest mentioned, but I don't see the directions. Thought it said to press the odometer reset while cycling the key. Tried that but nothing out of the ordinary is happening. I'd appreciate any help

 

[Orca]

CC doesn't work on my '97. [...] I've seen a selftest mentioned, but I don't see the directions.

I'm not sure if this will work on a 1997 Ranger, but it works on my 2004 Ranger:

Speed Control Self Diagnostic Test

 

[xsaylr]

Ok thanks, I'll give it a shot

 

[xsaylr]

Self test didn't work, but I took another look at the replacement deactivation sensor I picked up, and the cable did fit after all. Replaced that but it's still not lighting up. Think I read something about another sensor on the brake pedal, visually inspected it, appears intact. When I replaced the buttons, ONLY the buttons were replaced, not ribbon cables. Ordered a set tonight, maybe that'll help

 

[Orca]

Sorry to hear the self-test doesn't work on a 1997.

Which fuse did you check? A 1997 Ranger seems to have two fuses mentioning "speed control". And I'd also check any fuses related to ABS -- I see three of those!

Lacking a scantool to directly check the common inputs -- BPP ("Brake Pedal Position") and VSS ("Vehicle Speed Sensor") -- to a speed-control system, I'd also suggest the following...

Check that all the brakelights are working (ON when they should be and, more importantly, OFF when they should be). Also, if you haven't already done so, I'd try lifting the brake pedal with your foot while attempting to engage cruise control. (That's "Plan B" for checking BPP.)

Also, I assume that your speedometer is working properly. (That's "Plan B" for checking VSS.)

 

[xsaylr]

I do recall checking the small fuse and 1 in the power distribution block, both OK. I do actually have an old OBD2 scanner, do you think it might tell me something even if there's no chk engine light? I'll connect it tonight if I remember. I'll also try these other suggestions, thanks

 

[Orca]

I do recall checking the small fuse and 1 in the power distribution block, both OK.

I'd forgotten to consider the "Power Distribution Box" (as the manual refers to it), but it turned out that, to my eye, there are no obvious fuses or relays related to the speed control system in there, so I'm not sure what fuse you checked there, but I may have missed something. However, there are at least 2 fuses in there that seem to be related to the ABS. You might want to check those.

Also, if I were you, I'd definitely double-check the in-cab fuse box. If my downloaded 1997 Ranger owner's manual is correct, fuse #10 and #13 are used for "speed control". Please confirm. And don't forget about the 3 aforementioned ABS-related fuses in the in-cab fusebox.

I do actually have an old OBD2 scanner, do you think it might tell me something even if there's no chk engine light?

Depending on how capable it is, it could definitely be useful. As I frequently remind people, just because there's no CEL (Check Engine Light) illuminated, it doesn't mean that there are no codes!

So, see what your scantool can do. And tell us what brand/model it is. Assuming you have a stand-alone, all-in-one scantool (i.e. as opposed to one where you control the hardware and software, running on a laptop or smartphone/tablet -- which is far more flexible and inexpensive), here are the things that would be useful, ordered from "most likely to be supported in an inexpensive stand-alone scantool" to least likely:

1. report "stored" emission-related DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)
2. report "pending" emission-related DTCs
3. report standardized PIDs (Parameter IDs)
4. report non-emission-related DTCs (transmission, brakes, etc)
5. report manufacturer-specific PIDs

VSS is an SAE-standardized PID, so there's a good chance that even a low-end stand-alone scantool will report it.

BPP, unfortunately, is a manufacturer-specific PID, so you're better off with FORScan or Torque Pro or similar, where you get to choose the software.

 

[xsaylr]

I'd forgotten to consider the "Power Distribution Box" (as the manual refers to it), but it turned out that, to my eye, there are no obvious fuses or relays related to the speed control system in there, so I'm not sure what fuse you checked there, but I may have missed something. However, there are at least 2 fuses in there that seem to be related to the ABS. You might want to check those.

Also, if I were you, I'd definitely double-check the in-cab fuse box. If my downloaded 1997 Ranger owner's manual is correct, fuse #10 and #13 are used for "speed control". Please confirm. And don't forget about the 3 aforementioned ABS-related fuses in the in-cab fusebox.Depending on how capable it is, it could definitely be useful. As I frequently remind people, just because there's no CEL (Check Engine Light) illuminated, it doesn't mean that there are no codes!

So, see what your scantool can do. And tell us what brand/model it is. Assuming you have a stand-alone, all-in-one scantool (i.e. as opposed to one where you control the hardware and software, running on a laptop or smartphone/tablet -- which is far more flexible and inexpensive), here are the things that would be useful, ordered from "most likely to be supported in an inexpensive stand-alone scantool" to least likely:

1. report "stored" emission-related DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)
2. report "pending" emission-related DTCs
3. report standardized PIDs (Parameter IDs)
4. report non-emission-related DTCs (transmission, brakes, etc)
5. report manufacturer-specific PIDs

VSS is an SAE-standardized PID, so there's a good chance that even a low-end stand-alone scantool will report it.

BPP, unfortunately, is a manufacturer-specific PID, so you're better off with FORScan or Torque Pro or similar, where you get to choose the software.

Ok thanks, I do have an ABS light on the dash, that's currently the only error light. So ABS could be related to CC? There was some type of fuse in the power dist block that another thread mentioned, but it was fine. Ok ill check all of this, thanks

 

[Orca]

Ok thanks, I do have an ABS light on the dash, that's currently the only error light. So ABS could be related to CC?

Absolutely! Most CC systems won't engage if there are any ABS faults. IMHO, there's no point in going too much further until you find and fix the ABS issue(s). This is where capability #4 in my scantool list above comes into play. You need to determine why that ABS warning light is on.

 

[xsaylr]

Ok been at it here and there, got a few things off the list. Found out about an ABS sensor on top of rear diff, chkd/cleaned it. Same thing w the sensor coming off the brake reservoir. Replaced cruise control buttons again, but this time also the ribbon cables. Ran my scanner and it found no errors, which is good. Found slots for ABS fuses but it's not wired for them, so I believe I only have RABS. We'll see in the morning if the ABS light is out. Cruise light won't illuminate here in the driveway, not sure if it should or not. I forgot to try pulling the brake pedal up, still need to try that. All lights are working normally and so does the speedo & tach. There are larger 17" wheels on it, and I'm sure the speedo is off a bit, but it does work.

 

[Orca]

Found slots for ABS fuses but it's not wired for them, so I believe I only have RABS.

Based on your Power Distribution Box photo, I agree.

We'll see in the morning if the ABS light is out.

Good to have included the photo of your scantool. I was able to find a manual for it online. It seems to show that it supports #1 and #2 from my list above, but apparently not #4 (which you'd need to see what DTCs the ABS module is reporting). Nevertheless, if you can get to the point where the ABS light is off and stays off, you should be closer to a working CC.

Cruise light won't illuminate here in the driveway, not sure if it should or not.

I doubt you'd get the cruise dashboard light to illuminate until it's actually engaged. That's how my 2004 Ranger works. In fact, the CC dashboard light is one of the few that actually does NOT illuminate at the power-on self-test when the key is turned on.

I wish Ford made it as easy as on some GM vehicles, where you can query a specific PID (Parameter ID) and it gives you the exact reason why the CC won't engage.

Glad to hear you're making progress!

 

[xsaylr]

ABS light was still on this morning, and cruise is still out. Not sure what's left to check. I'm sure there's something, I'll keep checking

 

[Orca]

ABS light was still on this morning, and cruise is still out. Not sure what's left to check. I'm sure there's something, I'll keep checking

Assuming that your scanner still shows no codes, it would confirm that (for any of multiple possible reasons) it's not capable of reading ABS DTCs.

However, if you can find some way to run FORScan, you'd quickly have the answer to 2 important questions:

1. Why is my ABS dashboard light illuminated?
2. Is my brake pedal position (BPP) switch working?

Barring that, I suppose you could start considering all the things that make the ABS light illuminate, but that could be a bit of a wild goose chase.

Another thing to consider is the Neutral Safety Switch. Will your truck (dangerously!) start while in gear with the clutch released? If so, the ABS would always think that you're in neutral and/or have the clutch depressed, which would {EDIT: might} inhibit ABS (and {would inhibit} Cruise Control!) operation.