2.5L ('98-'01) Crank No-Start Ranger

[Yawn B Ranger]

Hello all, I have procured a lovely non-running Ranger for $400 with a crank no start condition. I have been scratching my head at this one for a while and have finally decided to post about it.
It is a 2000 Ranger XL with the 2.5L lima engine. This thing will crank and crank but will not start. I have done a 50/50 test on it and sprayed starting fluid to no avail. Starting fluid does not have any impact whatsoever. I have confirmed fuel pressure and have noted fuel on plugs after cranking. I also have confirmed that there is spark on all cylinders from the plug to an engine ground when cranking. The timing belt has been replaced and set correctly as well. I need some help here. I intend to be more stubborn than this Ranger.

 

[RobbieD]

The timing belt has been replaced and set correctly as well.

I would verify that.

If you have fuel, and you have spark, you may not have compression.

 

[Yawn B Ranger]

I would verify that.

If you have fuel, and you have spark, you may not have compression.

triangle to triangle on the cam, diamond to diamond on the oil pump pully, the etched line on the harmonic balancer lines up with TDC on the timing cover AND the dot lines up with the harmonic balancer removed. Ive confirmed with the little rubber grommets popped out of the timing cover after bolting everything back up.
I’ll try to figure out a compression test. I’ve been having trouble getting the compression fitting for my test kit to turn into the spark plug threads since they are recessed slightly into the head. It is hard to explain, but there is a small gap before the spark plug threads actually begin, and my fitting is not long enough to clear that gap. Maybe I’ll have some luck with it. Has anyone had that issue or is it just my dumb compression kit?

 

[scotts90ranger]

Sounds like the timing belt is lined up right and if you have fuel and spark the crank sensor is working. Have you put an OBD II reader on and checked for codes? There's gotta be something silly going on or the exhaust is plugged up something serious...

 

[Yawn B Ranger]

Sounds like the timing belt is lined up right and if you have fuel and spark the crank sensor is working. Have you put an OBD II reader on and checked for codes? There's gotta be something silly going on or the exhaust is plugged up something serious...

I have scanned and no codes have been thrown, it would be nice if I had some right about now. My money is on something silly. I’m still holding out that it’s not something serious. My only question is with the CEL. I have read in other threads that the CEL light is supposed to come on with the ignition and turn off while cranking. Something about the ECU/PCM initializing correctly. I have no CEL at all. Nothing. I pulled the PCM and took a picture of the internals but didn’t see anything obvious. I’m not an expert but I suppose i’d be looking for blown capacitors or mosfet things. Maybe someone can see something I can’t.

 

[Yawn B Ranger]

Updates: Compression test is a wash. 70psi across the board. Leak down test confirms that I am losing a lot of compression through the crank case. In other words, adding compression to any cylinder at TDC results in air coming out of the dip stick hole and the pcv hose on top of the valve cover.

I am assuming the next step involves either replacing the piston rings, or replacing the motor. Either way, I have to get a hoist on this thing. The oil pan looks awful for access. Any thoughts on the matter? Anything I might be missing?

 

[RobbieD]

Updates: Compression test is a wash. 70psi across the board. Leak down test confirms that I am losing a lot of compression through the crank case.

That sucks. At least you know why it won't run.

 

[Yawn B Ranger]

Updates: I purchased some rings and bearings off of rock auto so that I can address the low compression on this ranger. Yesterday, I removed the engine and began my tear down. Right now I have the pistons out and tapping them out was a chore. Come to find out, my connecting rods get progressively tighter and more corroded as you go back. My #1 rod is wiggling free willy. My #2, not as much. #3 is pretty stiff. My #4 is so stiff that it was almost locking up the engine. There is a fair amount of crust on the wrist pins and it gets worse as you go back. At some point, some form of water based fluid came back here and corroded all of my parts! My question going forward: Is this fixable? Do I need new pins, or can I soak this in some solution and make it all better?

To add to this, all of my rod bearings have no indication of heavy scoring or abnormal wear, it’s just these crusty pistons, rods, and wrist pins