Crank it or use leveling keys???

[JDanger]

I am new to the forum as I just bought a 2003 Ranger FX4. It has the typical sag in the front and I want to level it up. I did a search but didn't really find an answer to my question. I have been told by several people that using the keys is better than cranking the t-bars. One reason mentioned was the ride quality will be less affected by using the keys vs cranking.

Also, I may have screwed up. I measured from the ground to the fenderwell on both sides of the front and the drivers side was lower so I cranked it up to level it from side to side and then cranked both sides up to raise the front. It didn't give me much lift at all and the drivers side bottomed out. I backed both sides down just a touch but it still sags. Have I screwed up the alignment and if so is there a way to zero both sides and start over? Thanks

 

[07rangerfx4]

everybody on here is gonna tell u not to go with the keys..they will stiffin up ur ride quality.however u can get u a set of longer torsion bolts and it will work just as effective, and cheaper. as far as messing up the alignment, it kinda depends on ur truck..i tightened my bars about 3/4 of the way and had my alignment checked and it was perfect. then again some peoples get out of whack

 

[Chris.S.]

I am new to the forum as I just bought a 2003 Ranger FX4. It has the typical sag in the front and I want to level it up. I did a search but didn't really find an answer to my question. I have been told by several people that using the keys is better than cranking the t-bars. One reason mentioned was the ride quality will be less affected by using the keys vs cranking.

Also, I may have screwed up. I measured from the ground to the fenderwell on both sides of the front and the drivers side was lower so I cranked it up to level it from side to side and then cranked both sides up to raise the front. It didn't give me much lift at all and the drivers side bottomed out. I backed both sides down just a touch but it still sags. Have I screwed up the alignment and if so is there a way to zero both sides and start over? Thanks

I don't have much time so excuse my short response here:

Ride quality will be affected in the same way if use keys or not, either way you applying more tension to the "spring" (torsion bar) and extending the shock.

Keys, IMO, are a total waste of money as you get the exact same result buy cranking your bars and upgrading to longer bolts (where needed)...

I'm not sure what you mean by sagging? At stock the truck is intended to have a 2" rake (back to front)

You probably haven't messed up your alignment (not too much at least). When you say "bottomed out" are you referring to the shock "topping out" or extending all the way? If you are that is what the torsion twist does-it stretches that shock out and you lose all (or almost all) of the down travel.

 

[JDanger]

I don't have much time so excuse my short response here:

Ride quality will be affected in the same way if use keys or not, either way you applying more tension to the "spring" (torsion bar) and extending the shock.

Keys, IMO, are a total waste of money as you get the exact same result buy cranking your bars and upgrading to longer bolts (where needed)...

I'm not sure what you mean by sagging? At stock the truck is intended to have a 2" rake (back to front)

You probably haven't messed up your alignment (not too much at least). When you say "bottomed out" are you referring to the shock "topping out" or extending all the way? If you are that is what the torsion twist does-it stretches that shock out and you lose all (or almost all) of the down travel.

Chris, sorry, I meant the bolt is bottomed out that adjust the drivers side. I would need a longer bolt if I go this route. By sagging, yeh I meant the factory rake. It sets low in the front. Thanks

 

[Chris.S.]

If the bolt is maxxed out, you just have to get a longer one. The stockers are 60mm (I think, could be 40mm) and you'll want to go with a 80mm or even 100mm one.

I believe the bolt size is: M12 X 1.75 10.9 80/100mm.

I'll double check the exact size for you when I get a chance (got the info outside) but you should expect to have to order it, it's probably not going to be in stock and you'll have to go to a place that sells fasteners-most hardware stores won't have this. I got mine from Fastenal.

 

[Chris.S.]

Here's a pic of the stock bolt and the longer ones I bought to replace it. Note that I had to grind the tips one the new ones for a proper fit. I only had to use a longer bolt on my d side, p side is still stock.

 

[JDanger]

Chris, I went to the local NAPA and picked up a bolt but the longest they had was a 70mm. I went ahead and grabbed it and I also ground it the way you showed in the pic. I'm still about a 1/2" shy of level so I will need to get an 80mm. My passenger side has plenty of adjustment. I hope I did it right when installing the bolt. I measured to the fenderwells on both sides and just made them even and then went up from there evenly. With 245 75 16's I get a measurement of 34 3/4" from ground to fenderwell. I want to get to 35.5". I will definitely have the alignment checked once I get the height where I want it.

 

[Chris.S.]

Sounds like you're on the right track, adjustment will be different for each side since these are springs and each carries a different weight.

PM me if you have any q's at all...