Couple General questions 92 Explorer

[the_intimidator03]

Over the next week or so I will be replacing the clutch in my 92 Explorer. I just purchased the vehicle as a police impound. it is missing the front driveshaft and i know 4x4 light does not come on when I push the button. This being said, I am wanting to do some checks of the 4x4 system. I do plan on rebuilding the shift motor so it functions correctly.

issues I have noticed is a random pop or backfire during idle(possibly clean MAF?), Power Steering Leak, slight vibration during braking.

How can I check the front axle and auto hubs for function with the vehicle on jackstands?

How would you check the T-Case operation? (given I do not have a drive shaft and shift motor needs to be rebuilt)

Do you guys have any other suggestions on things to check?

I do appreciate any feedback. Here is a couple pictures of the rig. http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/the_intimidator03/library/Explorer?sort=3&page=1

 

[Andy D]

Genrally the if the front end goes down the road quietly, it is OK. Make sure it has lube. You should check out the front axles U-joints, but as long as it is in 2wd., they should be OK. Take the shift motor off. the face of the TC has the shifts cast into it. Put the rear end up on stands. Shift into 4 high and see if the front take off spins. I use a pair of small Vise grips and a length of mechanics wire to hold it in 4 wheel. I keep the hubs unlocked whilst I putt around town. If you're gonna use it as a daily driver, expect to spend money and time to get it into shape.

 

[the_intimidator03]

I do plan on having to fix a few things. I have read up on shift motor rebuilding. Since it doesnt have a front drive shaft I will have to turn the front end by hand. I am just lookin forwards to being able to play on the beach so I can access the jetties to go fishing.

 

[4x4junkie]

How can I check the front axle and auto hubs for function with the vehicle on jackstands?

Should be able to just turn the front pinion yoke by hand, not even having to put it up on jack stands. If everything is in working order, both hubs should lock in with a 'click' and the yoke should then not turn any further. The hubs should then unlock when you rotate the wheels back & forth (or reversing and then driving forward 20 feet).

How would you check the T-Case operation? (given I do not have a drive shaft and shift motor needs to be rebuilt)

As said, the front output yoke should be engaged with the rest of the driveline (good way to check is that the yoke does NOT turn freely when the truck is set in 4x4 and parked).


The vibration while braking is probably warped rotors and/or drums. You might be able to isolate it to the front or rear by slowing the truck using just the parking brake... If no vibration then it's just the front rotors.

Hope that helps

Nice find. Looks like it may have been sitting awhile.. Change every fluid on that (even the brake, clutch, and power steering fluids) and you should have a keeper.

 

[the_intimidator03]

So I got under it today. Turning the yoke on the front axle I was able to get both hubs to lock going forwards and reverse. Turning the disc brakes by hand in reverse unlocked them. So I think the front end is functional for 4x4. Next step would be checking the T-case which I will pull the shift motor tomorrow.

Only bad news from today while checking on the power steering leak, it seems it is not the pump or hoses but the steering box itself. I am curious how hard it is to rebuild it or just buy another one.


Is there anything special on 4x4 brakes.. I havent messed with them vs 2wd brakes on rangers

 

[BLOODBANE]

As for the brakes they are simple enough to change out. If your getting some vibration during braking I would guess bad rotors (or getting there). Take yours off and have them turned (or just buy some new ones (they arent that expensive). I would get the loaded rotors (comes with bearings and seals) , they are more than just the rotors. Put them back on, get some new pads and it should be good to go. There are two pins that hold the calipers that can be bothersome to drive out (I have the special tool made for these). A cheap spreader works well to install the new pads in the calipers. Put it all back together, pump the brakes a few time to seat everything and have fun

 

[4x4junkie]

If the steering box is tight (no excess play) I would say replace just the box seals. Not to big of a job other than it's easier to remove the box from the truck to replace the input shaft seal.
The sector shaft seal can be removed from the box using pump pressure... remove the retaining ring from around the sector shaft, start the engine then cycle the steering against each stop. Prepare for a bit of a mess though (put a pan & some cardboard down and follow up with some degreaser).

The input shaft seal should blow out using simple air pressure from a shop compressor (at least mine did anyway).

I do not suggest buying pre-loaded rotors unless you can confirm ahead of time they come with quality USA-made bearings (everything I've seen so far is chinese, even in so-called "premium" rotors). And get rid of any preloaded race from the rotor too if you do not also have a brand-matched bearing cone for it (buy your bearings as a set and use the race that comes with the set).
I've seen way too many issues with bearings on these frontends to suggest anyone take chances by mixing up different bearings & races.

 

[the_intimidator03]

I do appreciate all your input. Will be reinstalling shift motor tomorrow (bushing was crushed) Also ordering a seal kit for the steering box.

 

[ratdude747]

Here's the trick for brake vibarations on vehicles with pedal-type parking brakes:

Warped front brakes will shimmy the steering wheel when brakes are applied. Warped rear brakes will be a vibration in the seat, but not the steering wheel.

If you have access to somebody with a good brake lathe (and operator of such) and if the rotors aren't too thin/drums too wide, turn em. Otherwise I'd replace them, as a bad turning is a waste of time and money, and if they're too thin machining is out of the question.

 

[the_intimidator03]

Ratdude that is a good point in where you feel the vibrations in relating to which end of the vehicle.

 

[jeremysdad]

Agree on all of the points about brakes.

Further offer: if it makes your nuts feel funny going down the road...it's probably a u joint.