Cost of lowering vs lift

[FlyingFatass]

I have a 1990 Ranger xlt single cab. I bought it the way it is, with a 2" lift (its just bricks and pucks though, they can be removed easily), 15" soft eights and 29" A/T's. I do have 3 stock rims and a donut, with all the same tires on. I've been contemplating on whether I should do a lift or a drop. I do offroad it from time to time, but I'm thinking I'm gunna stop. I've got a new sound system I'll be installing soon, which is probably going to end its offroading days permanently. Besides, I have to make it last through 4 years of college, and offroading sure doesn't help maintain the trucks lifespan.

Anyway, I'm doing a cost/benefit analysis of lifting vs lowering.

With the lift, I would be buying the 4" rough country lift for $440. That, plus pulling an 8.8 from an explorer, as well as the leafs. Then I would switch out the gears to 4.10's or larger. I would also have to drop 200-300 on some 31" tires. I would probably end up with near $1,000 put into it for the lift.

Now if i dropped it, I would probably do something like a 3/5 or 4/5. I like the idea of turning it into a sort of rat-rod. I would go all the way with the suspension, getting drop springs and shocks, buying or fabbing the shackle kit and mounting the axle over the leafs (Would this much of a drop require a C-notch in the frame?). I would probably pull some stiffer leafs off of an explorer as well. I wouldnt need to touch my axle of diff gearing since I would probably remount all the original wheels and tires.

Now I have done a decent amount of research for drop kits, but I need an idea for pricing. If i bought:
Drop springs
Camber bushings
drop shocks all around
flip bracket kit
and shackle kit

What would be a rough estimate for cost if I bought all of those?

 

[FlyingFatass]

Also, would it be possible to pull the springs from something heavier, like a 5.0 explorer, and just cut them to reach the desired drop?

 

[Insanejughead]

I recommend getting dropped beams for your ranger. A new set of those comes with brackets to flip your axle to the top of your leaves. A new set will run you around $400 or so, depending on where you look. Slammedxonair is a dealer of DJM lowering kits and he's a frequent poster on this site. He is always cutting TRS members deals on his merch.


I also suggest looking local for people who are selling their old set. I found a set of Belltech 3" lowering beams for $100. I've had both DJM and Belltech beams on my truck, and they're both worth their price. You also won't have to buy new shocks for the front with just using lowered beams.

Camber bushings are going to be about $20 a piece (I got the 4 degree two way adjustable ones from Napa)

Something else you could try before you lower your ranger is to just flip the shackle in the back and see how you like its new stance. All you have to do is lift and support the rear end of your frame, grind and punch out the rivets holding the shackle on, and then twist it up and flip it over and install four grade 5 or better 3/8 bolts to keep it in place.



I had my ranger lowered for almost two years. I got tired of hitting bumpstops on the typically horrible back road of Missouri. I also don't like slowing down, so that didn't help it either. On a decent road though, the 3/4" DJM lowering kit makes a ranger ride and look NICE!



Did that help at all?

 

[FlyingFatass]

That does help a lot. I was going to replace the shocks anyway though, since all four of mine are blown (offroading doesn't do them too well). I guess I'll save up and buy the drop beams if it helps with ride quality though.

 

[GMillion$]

I'd say slam it if your worried aboot price but want a cool rig. Offroad rigs don't get built just once...

For your list I'd estimate around 5hundo, but that's def just a guess. But then you're gonna need some 17's and about 6 rattle cans of flat black...

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

i would suggest lift or leave it as it is.
looks really nice.

and i have a sound system on mine and still drive it off road.

 

[FlyingFatass]

Well if i leave it how it is I still have a few problems. All four shocks are blown. I would need to get new leafs, My camber up front is wayyyy too positive because the guy before me didnt do the lift right, so I would probably have to buy camber bushings. The gearing with the current tire size is horrible, I would need to swap out to 4.10's. Plus I would probably change the axle to the 8.8 trac-lok since I would want to mud it. And I also can't take a corner worth a crap because the thing tips like crazy. After doing all of that, I would probably be down about the same amount it would cost to drop it....and I kinda like the dropped look better anyway =P.

I also plan on turboing eventually as well. I would think that turbo + mud = bad things

 

[RavoHimself]

have you considered a body lift? it doesnt help with suspension travel but gives you more clearance. and it only costs like 150. and that RC lift for $440 is with rear blocks. nobody really likes to ride with 4" blocks in the rear. especially offroading. so if you do RC save for the one with new leaf springs.

as for lowering i never really liked lowered trucks imo

 

[FlyingFatass]

have you considered a body lift? it doesnt help with suspension travel but gives you more clearance. and it only costs like 150. and that RC lift for $440 is with rear blocks. nobody really likes to ride with 4" blocks in the rear. especially offroading. so if you do RC save for the one with new leaf springs.

as for lowering i never really liked lowered trucks imo

Body lift will make my problems worse. I already have horrible body roll in corners. I'm afraid that im gunna flip sometimes. And having positive camber doesn't help at all.

 

[Insanejughead]

Body roll can be cured by getting polyurethane cab mounts and then fixing your cab mounts.

Most rangers that are 15+ years old are usually rusting out pretty bad.


I replaced my cab mounts (bushing and mount, two were TOTALLY rusted out) back in June, and afterwards, it felt more like a car than a pickup.

 

[FlyingFatass]

Body roll can be cured by getting polyurethane cab mounts and then fixing your cab mounts.

Most rangers that are 15+ years old are usually rusting out pretty bad.


I replaced my cab mounts (bushing and mount, two were TOTALLY rusted out) back in June, and afterwards, it felt more like a car than a pickup.

surprisingly enough, the underside of my truck has little to no rust. I haven't checked the body mounts specifcally, but ill go take a look later.

 

[FlyingFatass]

also, i still need to know if taking the front springs off of a heavier vehicle and cutting them will be worthwhile? Or should I just buy the 2" lowering springs?

 

[Insanejughead]

I don't know the dimensions on a heavier rated vehicle such as an Explorer.


I lowered my truck about an inch in the front by cutting a full coil off of my springs. If you cut them, be sure to keep the spring from getting too hot and don't cut more than one coil to start with.


Lowering springs aren't that expensive, last I checked... Those are a surefire way to go, in my book.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

A bodylift leaves the heavy stuff low compared to a suspension lift, so it is really more stable on the road. The tin body doesn't weigh hardly anything compared to the engine/trans/t-case/frame...

I have a 3" on my Ranger and love it, bodymounts looked fine so I didn't mess with them.

You didn't say what your truck is, but if it is 2wd I vote to lower it.

5.0 Explorers are torsion bar, so you can't rob the coils out of one... they don't have them.

 

[Insanejughead]

I say this to everybody I know.


Why work against gravity!??? It's so vial and futile... Hahaha!


Your truck, your choice. (Don't you like being an American?)