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cooling the 5r44e


TX Ranger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2011
Messages
54
City
Galveston
Vehicle Year
2002
Transmission
Automatic
I've gotta RBV newb question, and I've searched.

I've read guys complaining about this tranny getting hot when towing. People suggest to add an aux cooler... cooler with and without fan, temp gauge, without blah blah. I know absolutely d1ck about auto trannys, and my Chiltons isn't helping. dumb question, I have the small aux tranny cooler just front of the rad, does the radiator fluid travel through the tranny, or the tranny fluid through the cooler? which way is the fluid flowing? line at the top or bottom of the tranny is the supply or return? temp gauge taps into the return line?

thanks for the patience.

TX Ranger
 
Last edited:
Well, these transmissions do NOT like heat. What else is odd is that they have an internal thermostat which opens at 150 degrees F. The hydraulic circuit which operates by the thermostat is the same fluid that flows through the filter. So if your fluid is under 150F the fluid is bypassed around the trans cooler AND filter. There is a fix, though. The superior shift kit has a cylinder to disable the thermostat. Also, sonnax makes an increased ratio boost valve that will allow fluid to flow even when the thermostat is closed and flows a lot more volume through the cooler/filter when opened (or bypassed). There are a lot more benefits to the superior kit, also.

There are two chambers in the radiator of an auto equipped truck. The engine coolant is seperate of the trans fluid. The aux. cooler works more effectively if shifted up into the grill more (more air flow) but an aftermarket trans cooler is best.

There is no point to put a trans temp gauge sending unit in the return line. I would tap into the transmission pan. Get a bung and weld it on or one of the universal drain plug kits with the same thread as the sending unit. Then you have a drain port for your ATF too.
 
Yessir, here's the link for the sonnax boost valve....

http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/transmission/parts/1506

For a cooler, what ever you get a good deal on. Mine is 15x10x3/4.

The superior shift kit also addresses most of the TSBs that ford has come out with for these transmissions. But you should go to ford and pick up a separator plate with the bonded gasket for extra insurance (blown gasket is the biggest cause for sliding shifts, no manual 1st braking, delayed reverse/Drive selection, ect). The EPC solenoid should be replaced as long as you are in there. Usually they start to get weak around 75K. The EPC solenoid is responsible for controlling the amount of line pressure to the circuits.

If you do not feel comfortable doing this yourself, I would talk to a reputable transmission shop or find a buddy who is mechanically inclined. I don't know how much it would cost the shop to do it.
 
towed a kawasaki mule on a single trailer for about 4 hrs. don't have a tranny temp gauge, but shot the pan with a laser thermo point blank. never got over 150F. i assume that's pretty acurate assuming that steel pan is approx same temp as fluid. the country roads did bump a coil wire onto the exhaust manifold causing it to melt through, run on 5 cylinders, and check engine light came on. It had me scratching my head before I figured it out.
 

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