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Convince me to do my clutch myself!


V8Notch

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Messages
48
Transmission
Automatic
Talk me into doing my clutch myself instead of bringing it to a shop. The clutch chatters and does not engage smoothly. I've only had the truck for a couple of months but this problem isn't getting any better. 2000 4.0 4x4, NO bodylift.

I can do it in my dad's garage with jackstands. I've got all the tools I need. Is there any reason I can't get this done in 4 days? I would really like to have it by the weekend. I've done timing chains, intakes, brakes, and a whole bunch of stuff so I don't know why this is making me think twice.

My major concerns are the exhaust pipe and removing the transmission. I have NO bodylift. I'm in Canada and the exhaust looks like it might be a real challenge to loosen.

Anyways talk me into this or I'm gonna bring it to a shop!
 
4 days?

I've done it in about an hour.

It's not too difficult.
Remove driveshafts
Remove T-case
Remove clutch line
Remove shifter
Rmeove Starter
Remove tranny
Replace clutch, put it all back together

I can lift the tranny and tcase in and out by myself, but they are pretty heavy..

If you have 4 days, I start it then come back and ask questions if you need to.
 
You can do it!Not too hard,,the release on the hyd line can be difficult but will come off with a little patience. I would use some good quality penetrating fluid on those exhaust flange bolts a day or two prior to taking it apart. I could not get mine loose ,97,so I had to take the manifolds off ,blow out the studs and put it back together with stainless nuts and bolts.Also ,call around and get it priced out at a shop, that'll make you want to do it yourself..Good luck!
 
I've done it too many times as well, enough that I can grab every tool I need outta my box by memory....

I'd hit the exhaust bolts with any kind of penetrating lubricant a day or two in advance. My best luck pulling the Ypipe-manifold bolts is when using a long 1/2" extension and a good impact (IR titanium does the trick nicely). Everything else is a piece of cake.
 
If you have a friend, half a brain between you both, the tools, and some time (4 days is plenty) it's easily doable.

If that and the above hasn't convinced you, think of the money you are saving as well as the possibility of learning something and also the feeling of "conquering" the task yourself. Anyone can drive to a garage...

:)
 
Do it. The 98 and up Rangers are by far the easiest RBV to do a clutch job on. They're actually one of the easiest 4wd clutch jobs I've had experience with. Like mentioned earlier, hit your exhaust bolts with some penetrating oil a day ahead of time.
 
$1,700CAD from Ford Dealership!!!!

I've got no excuse to not do it, parts will be less than $400.

I'll let you know how it goes....wish me luck!
 
I just did the clutch in my truck and i didnt have to mess with the exhaust at all, but we have different years so it might be diferent. If the clutch is chattering make sure u get it machined before u put it back together!
 
Yes, I'll get the flywheel machined for sure.

See how it goes tonight...
 
We'll I got started last night. The exhaust is going to be the end of me. Got 1 bolt on each manifold flange loose. Destroyed my socket trying to get the other ones. Are the 3 bolts on the y-pipe to cats 13mm? I can't get a 13mm on there and the 14 is way too loose. All I have is a propane torch and no impact tools. Any suggestions other than penetrating oil? One of the bolt heads is getting a little damaged.

If I can't get this y-pipe out this thing is gonna have to wait until the road trip is over. I just can't stand the damm clutch chattering on take off. It holds fine but taking off sucks. I really don't want to do any damage with the chattering clutch.

Anyways I'll get a new socket after work and give it a shot. If she doesn't come tonight it's gonna have to wait a couple of weeks.

Is there any point in trying with the exhaust still in place?
 
When removing the exhaust on m '99 3.0L it was either 13mm or 1/2", don't remember which, but one fit and the other didn't. I ended up grinding a socket so it was completely flat on the end (no more slight taper) and just long enough to fit onto the nut. Every other socket I tried wanted to slip off and was going to round off the nut. One or two of the nuts required multiple extensions and a universal.
 
Grinding the socket might work.

I think this is gonna wait till I get back.

What's the chance of doing some damage with a chattering clutcH? Once its engaged the car drives fine, just slipping it sucks.
 

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