Converting A 1994 Ford Ranger to 4X4

[Kwity]

Hello, I got a 1994 Ford Ranger 3.0 2WD 5-speed manual that I'm pretty serious about converting to 4WD. From what I've heard, it seems to be a pretty daunting task but from what I've seen, It deosnt seem all that diffucult to me (subtle foreshadowing).

I'm swapping the old 3.0 with a 302 from a 1995 Ford Mustang and because I want to keep it manual and cost effictive, I think matting the engine with a M5OD-R2 out of a F-150 will be pretty benfical for my wallet and keep things pretty simple since the shifter location, clutch lines, and overall length is pretty similiar to the one found in the Ranger already, the M50D-R1. So I know I'll need to get a 4x4 M5OD-R2 and I'm pretty sure that a Borg Warner 1356 will mate to the transmission no problemo. However, im not sure how the front end will come together since I would have to replace the TIB with TTB.

I found a 1990s Bronco at the junkyard that has the Borg Warner 1356 as well as all the front supporting components. I have heard some people on here saying that you cant just replace the the beams from the 2WD Ranger with the ones from the 4WD Bronco because of different frame length and all but I'm not very sure about that since it seems as if they would bolt up pretty similiar except for the differing mounting brackets for the beams. I also installed a lift kit on the Ranger so I'm pretty familiar with the mounting points and suspension parts. Additionally, the Bronco has a manual 4x4 shifter so no electronics would need to be run. Lastly, I'm not sure if I will have to cut my current driveshaft or use one from a differnt vehicle.

Thanks for the help!

 

[JoshT]

The entire crossmember and mounting for the front suspension are different. The front TTB would be far from a bolt in swap. You'd almost have an easier time doing a solid alxe swap than trying to convert to 4x4 TTB. There's been a few threads about it in the past if you do some searching.

Take note that if you see references to people converting a BII to 4x4 it is not the same. All BIIs used the 4x4 frame components, the 2wd BIIs also sat higher than the 2wd Rangers as a result.

 

[Curious Hound]

If that Bronco You’re talking about is a full-size Bronco, the front axle is a D44 and is wider than the D35s and D28s used in Rangers. So it is wider and all tje mounting points are different. May also have a different lug pattern for the wheels.

What You are proposing is definitely a daunting task. Anything is possible with enough money, time, skill, tools and will-power. But this is a steep cliff to climb.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yep, Bronco II used everything for a 4x4 on the 2wds including a 4x4 transmission and an empty t-case. Just the axle pivot for the passenger side beam was non-4x4. I know because I did a 4x4 conversion on a Bronco II many years ago.

The 2wd Rangers were a different animal. Engine crossmember is entirely different between 2wd and 4x4. So you either have to swap that or do some custom fabricating. Probably almost easier to just go straight axle. Jeep axles share the same bolt pattern so a D-30 is about the same as our D-35 TTB. Or if you can find a Rubicon or the like, you can find a heavier front axle.

You will want an 8.8” rear axle to replace your current 7.5”. Or you can just go to full size axles front and rear if you go that route.

The 302/5.0 that fits the best in the Ranger engine bay is the one out of the Explorer. A 95-97 would be what would match your current truck the closest for making it work.

If the Bronco you are talking about does have a 1356 t-case, then you are talking about a full size Bronco. Engine crossmember and axles and all are all full size truck. They cross to the F-150 as for parts sharing and don’t match the Ranger at all.

 

[scotts90ranger]

That and the offset for the front output on a 1356 is really long (IE long enough to hit the drivers side frame rail), you'd be better off with the 4406 out of the F150 you get the transmission out of, they had manual transfer cases on some, I've found two so it can't be that hard... grab both drivelines while you're there...

Like said above swapping to TTB from TIB would be a pain but if you're doing an engine swap at the same time it would be possible but you'd want the front frame section to "extract" or do like I did and swap the whole frame... It would be easier to swap to a solid axle, a lot of people use Jeep Dana 30's because they're the right width and stuff

 

[don4331]

@Kwity : Welcome to the forum.

1. The "ideal" transfer case is a BW4406 out of 96-03 Expedition/F-150. It's ~60mm (2-3/8") narrower than the BW1356 [only ~17mm/5/8" wider than the BW1354]. The 1356 can be made fit, but you will have to notch and reinforce the frame. (@scotts90ranger responded while I was typing)

2. As noted converting BII to 4wd is completely different animal than a Ranger assuming you want to stick with the TTB/OEM. The engine cross member is welded into the frame, so it is a major task to cut out of 4wd frame in wrecking yard/remove from your 2wd truck and then precisely welded back into place. It can and has been done (The engine out is pretty much a requirement; having the cab off is benefical), but really its easier to get 4wd frame from the wrecker and move your cab/box to the new frame. <Ditto>

2a. If you have the skills to do the engine mount transplant, you will note that lift kits supply brackets to lower the axle with relation to the engine cross member. By carefully measuring the differences between the 2nd and 4wd crossmembers, and the OEM axle brackets, it is possible to fabricate your own 2wd crossmember to TTB axle brackets.

3. There are 6 variants to the M5ODR-2 (not including 2wd vs 4wd)

i. The original 2wd one which uses 1/2" bolts to mount the transmission to a 302 (Windsor); fore shifter position​

ii. The later 2wd one which uses 12mm bolts to mount the transmission to a 3.8/3.9/4.2 (Essex block); aft shifter position​

The bolt pattern is the same, but 1/2" bolts for mounting to a 302 won't go through the 12mm holes. However, you can ream the holes out to 1/2". Just make sure you have the correct bolts - you don't want to ruin the block.​

iii,iv. And 4wd versions if the aforementioned.​

v.,vi 4.6 2 & 4wd versions of the transmission.​

​

The fore position puts the shifter when in 1/3/5 right against the dash; an Essex transmission and reaming the holes is the better option.​

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p.s. don't forget to get the plate which goes between the block and transmission and seals off the transmission bell housing from water, grit and critters, your clutch will thank you​

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p.p.s. Make sure the engine has a pilot bearing for a manual - your throw out bearing needs it.​

​

4. The 8.8 is a "nice to have": Both the 7.5 and 8.8 Ranger axles use 28 spline shafts. If you really want to convert to 8.8, get the Explorer axle with 31 spline axles (and disc brakes). <Match axle ratios goes without saying>

5. Lastly, as noted a full size Bronco's axles are very different from BII/Ranger. Also note there are Dana 28, Dana 35 and Dana 35 Hybrid (Dana 35 with Dana 28 guts) TTB axle under BII and Rangers (Ranger and BII TTB are same, rear axle is wider under BII and doesn't swap into Ranger). The Dana 35 is the one to look for.

 

[bobbywalter]

 

[bobbywalter]

the 1356 is a problem in regards to fitment. this is mitigatable with a body lift..and powertrain offset increase over normal....and some cutting off of nubs on the case and rolling/modding the frame rail. not ideal in any case....but at least many of them are fixed rear yoke...

the ford 208 is wide too but much smaller overall than the 1356 and requires a bit of accommodation but can also easily be had with a fixed yoke.

same as a jeep 208 if you can find one....swap in a 31 spline input and adapt the speedo cable. they work the best. but you will want a body lift for any of those critters or floor pan mods.

from there the 4406/7 is next.

the 205 is just too heavy unless you want to be able to split it for front only drive...

.in that case i would consider flipping a dana 300....or the dana 20 from the early bronco. all of these are not cheap, save for the 205....those are still reasonable in a few places.

i prefer a 2-3 in body lift with a 4x4 in general....but especially when combined with a v8 swap all around....just the ease of maintenance justifies it.... let alone fitting bigger crap.


the bronco 2 axle and the explorer axle will bolt right in....though the explorer requires a home made flip kit which is simple if you apply a tiny level of ability just to get going.

i have had to install them on side of the road a few times because that is all i could get in the time crunch.

because a 7.5 is not good enough in a 4x4 with 35 or larger tires that has power and gets abused. they never lasted me long at all but i used to break alot of stuff...so you use what you have to to get by.


case deflection ends up wiping out the diff and spiders....

and even regular 8.8 or explorer 8.8....which have much stronger cases....(outer pig housings) still need a truss and fully welded up to keep case deflection at bay and the tubes from spinning in the diff case if you plan to abuse it with 37 or bigger tires...

to bolt in the explorer axle to get by initially, use some 1/2 in thick strap and a grinder/cut off wheel can dial it right in with a set of fresh perches. fore and aft leaving the oem perches in place.... once your happy with it, take it to a muffler shop or weld shop to have them burned on if you cant weld or dont have a welder

...but you can get by with the flip with normal stuff on the user menu... if you have staggered shock mounts still just use two lefts from the explorer...you loose ground clearance...but not any different then if you simply had a lifted explorer...

the more central mount of the bronco 2 center section can cause driveshaft rub issues on the skid plate for the fuel tank, or possibly the fuel tank itself depending on actual year and combination of parts. say reg cab verse ext cab...and plastic tank vs metal tank and actual gallon capacity of tank. there is alot of variance here.

the perches are a bit off but 100 percent bolt up and set in fine. the leaf springs eat that up no problem....especially lift springs. i had to use these several times in a pinch..

as to the ttb setup.... swapping in a stock ttb crossmember isnt too hard at all.

it justs sux to do.

....but hard is not a thing it should be considered if you can swap a powertrain...and sort of kind of weld.

i would consider relocating it forward a bit and the steering box but that is only if 38 in tires or 40 may be down the road. i do it with long arms anyway. i always shimmed my axle forward to clear even 35 in q type swamper tires...they are big.


using the fullsize ttb d44 is doable with the good skyjacker kit.

you have to drill new mounting holes inboard about an inch and may have to play with yoke clearances... spring mounts and actual spring type will be factors but the stock buckets can get by...

but it is doable.

i have a set of ttb brackets intended to be able to accomodate both d35 and ttb44.

steering is where it gets tricky... but there are several size adjuster sleeves to help make that happen. and that is a whole different set of options.

me...

i would do a 5.3 gm vortech with a fabbot ar5,

old school i think 233 s10 t case....even a 207... and a dana 30 high pinion from a cherocar with long arms....or maybe leafs...

that would be best dollar . great performance. and easy peasy.