Converting A 1994 Ford Ranger to 4X4


Joined
Feb 1, 2026
Messages
1
Points
1
City
Cantonment
State - Country
FL - USA
Vehicle Year
1995
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
4 inch Lift
Tire Size
33x12.5R15
Hello, I got a 1994 Ford Ranger 3.0 2WD 5-speed manual that I'm pretty serious about converting to 4WD. From what I've heard, it seems to be a pretty daunting task but from what I've seen, It deosnt seem all that diffucult to me (subtle foreshadowing).

I'm swapping the old 3.0 with a 302 from a 1995 Ford Mustang and because I want to keep it manual and cost effictive, I think matting the engine with a M5OD-R2 out of a F-150 will be pretty benfical for my wallet and keep things pretty simple since the shifter location, clutch lines, and overall length is pretty similiar to the one found in the Ranger already, the M50D-R1. So I know I'll need to get a 4x4 M5OD-R2 and I'm pretty sure that a Borg Warner 1356 will mate to the transmission no problemo. However, im not sure how the front end will come together since I would have to replace the TIB with TTB.

I found a 1990s Bronco at the junkyard that has the Borg Warner 1356 as well as all the front supporting components. I have heard some people on here saying that you cant just replace the the beams from the 2WD Ranger with the ones from the 4WD Bronco because of different frame length and all but I'm not very sure about that since it seems as if they would bolt up pretty similiar except for the differing mounting brackets for the beams. I also installed a lift kit on the Ranger so I'm pretty familiar with the mounting points and suspension parts. Additionally, the Bronco has a manual 4x4 shifter so no electronics would need to be run. Lastly, I'm not sure if I will have to cut my current driveshaft or use one from a differnt vehicle.

Thanks for the help!
 
The entire crossmember and mounting for the front suspension are different. The front TTB would be far from a bolt in swap. You'd almost have an easier time doing a solid alxe swap than trying to convert to 4x4 TTB. There's been a few threads about it in the past if you do some searching.

Take note that if you see references to people converting a BII to 4x4 it is not the same. All BIIs used the 4x4 frame components, the 2wd BIIs also sat higher than the 2wd Rangers as a result.
 
If that Bronco You’re talking about is a full-size Bronco, the front axle is a D44 and is wider than the D35s and D28s used in Rangers. So it is wider and all tje mounting points are different. May also have a different lug pattern for the wheels.

What You are proposing is definitely a daunting task. Anything is possible with enough money, time, skill, tools and will-power. But this is a steep cliff to climb.
 
Yep, Bronco II used everything for a 4x4 on the 2wds including a 4x4 transmission and an empty t-case. Just the axle pivot for the passenger side beam was non-4x4. I know because I did a 4x4 conversion on a Bronco II many years ago.

The 2wd Rangers were a different animal. Engine crossmember is entirely different between 2wd and 4x4. So you either have to swap that or do some custom fabricating. Probably almost easier to just go straight axle. Jeep axles share the same bolt pattern so a D-30 is about the same as our D-35 TTB. Or if you can find a Rubicon or the like, you can find a heavier front axle.

You will want an 8.8” rear axle to replace your current 7.5”. Or you can just go to full size axles front and rear if you go that route.

The 302/5.0 that fits the best in the Ranger engine bay is the one out of the Explorer. A 95-97 would be what would match your current truck the closest for making it work.

If the Bronco you are talking about does have a 1356 t-case, then you are talking about a full size Bronco. Engine crossmember and axles and all are all full size truck. They cross to the F-150 as for parts sharing and don’t match the Ranger at all.
 
That and the offset for the front output on a 1356 is really long (IE long enough to hit the drivers side frame rail), you'd be better off with the 4406 out of the F150 you get the transmission out of, they had manual transfer cases on some, I've found two so it can't be that hard... grab both drivelines while you're there...

Like said above swapping to TTB from TIB would be a pain but if you're doing an engine swap at the same time it would be possible but you'd want the front frame section to "extract" or do like I did and swap the whole frame... It would be easier to swap to a solid axle, a lot of people use Jeep Dana 30's because they're the right width and stuff
 
@Kwity : Welcome to the forum.

1. The "ideal" transfer case is a BW4406 out of 96-03 Expedition/F-150. It's ~60mm (2-3/8") narrower than the BW1356 [only ~17mm/5/8" wider than the BW1354]. The 1356 can be made fit, but you will have to notch and reinforce the frame. (@scotts90ranger responded while I was typing)

2. As noted converting BII to 4wd is completely different animal than a Ranger assuming you want to stick with the TTB/OEM. The engine cross member is welded into the frame, so it is a major task to cut out of 4wd frame in wrecking yard/remove from your 2wd truck and then precisely welded back into place. It can and has been done (The engine out is pretty much a requirement; having the cab off is benefical), but really its easier to get 4wd frame from the wrecker and move your cab/box to the new frame. <Ditto>

2a. If you have the skills to do the engine mount transplant, you will note that lift kits supply brackets to lower the axle with relation to the engine cross member. By carefully measuring the differences between the 2nd and 4wd crossmembers, and the OEM axle brackets, it is possible to fabricate your own 2wd crossmember to TTB axle brackets.

3. There are 6 variants to the M5ODR-2 (not including 2wd vs 4wd)
i. The original 2wd one which uses 1/2" bolts to mount the transmission to a 302 (Windsor); fore shifter position​
ii. The later 2wd one which uses 12mm bolts to mount the transmission to a 3.8/3.9/4.2 (Essex block); aft shifter position​
The bolt pattern is the same, but 1/2" bolts for mounting to a 302 won't go through the 12mm holes. However, you can ream the holes out to 1/2". Just make sure you have the correct bolts - you don't want to ruin the block.​
iii,iv. And 4wd versions if the aforementioned.​
v.,vi 4.6 2 & 4wd versions of the transmission.​
The fore position puts the shifter when in 1/3/5 right against the dash; an Essex transmission and reaming the holes is the better option.​
p.s. don't forget to get the plate which goes between the block and transmission and seals off the transmission bell housing from water, grit and critters, your clutch will thank you​
p.p.s. Make sure the engine has a pilot bearing for a manual - your throw out bearing needs it.​
4. The 8.8 is a "nice to have": Both the 7.5 and 8.8 Ranger axles use 28 spline shafts. If you really want to convert to 8.8, get the Explorer axle with 31 spline axles (and disc brakes). <Match axle ratios goes without saying>

5. Lastly, as noted a full size Bronco's axles are very different from BII/Ranger. Also note there are Dana 28, Dana 35 and Dana 35 Hybrid (Dana 35 with Dana 28 guts) TTB axle under BII and Rangers (Ranger and BII TTB are same, rear axle is wider under BII and doesn't swap into Ranger). The Dana 35 is the one to look for.
 

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