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Confusion abounds with my V-8 swap


superdave1984

Well-Known Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Mar 25, 2008
Messages
1,215
Age
59
City
KY
Transmission
Manual
When I did this the first time back in 1992 it was a piece of cake. 84 2WD Ranger, 302/C-4 from a 72 Mustang. Went right in using Total Performance motor mounts. (They are no longer making mounts BTW). Even left the Stang headers on while we put it in. No clearance issues whatsoever. Didn't have to do anything to the heater box.

Fast forward to now. 87 2WD, 5.0/AOD from 85 Grand Marquis. Tri-Y headers, vert mounts. It's in, but the oil filter relocation is touching the steering box, I hacked the heater box because I was a tard and left the tranny dipstick tube on there while doing this and it popped a chunk out of the corner when I was trying to pull the engine back out one of the 6 times it has come back out. Looks like the whole engine needs to go back a couple inches. I swapped the mounts like I read and it just looks too far forward. Either the mounts were labeled wrong or I'm just an idiot. Anyway, the purdy Tri-Y headers don't even come close to going in. This has me stumped as I have read many times they work well other than they need a little tweaking to clear the trans. Hell, I can't even get them to get in the engine compartment. I think I need to take a few days off from this project to let it all soak in, then tackle it again.

Also, the threads that are stickied about these swaps are missing the pictures which would make it really helpful.
 
My mounts have the bolt toward the front, which places the engine rearward. Mine are correctly labelled L and R, but others seem to have the opposite experience.

As far as I know, Tri-Ys need to be modified to fit with an AOD, although I konw there are many versions of the header.

Sliding the engine back (if your mounts are opposite of what I described) will get you clearance to the steering box. I just changed my steering box last week, and had platy of clearance with the engine and oil filter adapter in place.
 
do you mean covertible mustang mounts, if so they are shorter than hatchback mustang mounts. I think 3/4 or so. If it helps
 
I have a set of total performance mounts I have been saving, you want
me to get some dimensions so you can copy them?
 
For the record, I'm also talking about 'vert, convertible mounts. Mine were from a Mark VII, same as '94/'95 Mustang coupe...

It's possible the original poster has them flipped L/R from ideal.

Here is the stamp on one of mine, the location where the rivet was removed
Mar22022.jpg


...and their orientation on the engine itself. (this is not the mount in the prev photo, this one is stamped "L")
Mar22013.jpg
 
As stated above, the Tri-Y's need tweaking to clear an AOD. And if the motor and transmission are already in (and positioned corectly*), the driver's side header will actually fall thru from top to bottom if you don't hold it in place. The passenger side takes a bit of finagling to get the collector past the starter bulge, but once past that, only the mid bend in the pipes is anywhere close to the frame. *"Positioned correctly" = motor and trans in place, motor as far back as it can go against the drivers side firewall, leaving about an inch clearance, motor centered between the FENDERS and leveled using the carb pad as a reference (truck needs to be level too) side to side, front to back (except if using a Vic Jr intake as the carb pad on these isn't canted as on others)
 
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For the record, I'm also talking about 'vert, convertible mounts. Mine were from a Mark VII, same as '94/'95 Mustang coupe...

It's possible the original poster has them flipped L/R from ideal.

Here is the stamp on one of mine, the location where the rivet was removed
Mar22022.jpg


...and their orientation on the engine itself. (this is not the mount in the prev photo, this one is stamped "L")
Mar22013.jpg

I think this is the problem. I'll need to double check, but I believe my mounts were mislabeled so I swapped sides when I didn't need to. There isn't a stamping, just a sticker. And, I think if the engine goes back a few inches, which it looks like swapping them again will do, I should have lots more room for headers. I am certain they will need to be cut and bent or whatever because the AOD is so wide. This makes me feel better and much less stupid.


BUT....the holes I cut in the frame......will they be in the right place if I swap sides with the mounts??????:shok: Or am I going to have to patch and re-cut? I ain't got no welder.
 
The holes in my crossmember at at the very rear/top of the crossmember. Slotted downward quite a bit for the engine to settle once the studs go in place.

Here's the location of mine:
June22_e.jpg
 
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BUT....the holes I cut in the frame......will they be in the right place if I swap sides with the mounts??????:shok: Or am I going to have to patch and re-cut? I ain't got no welder.
:D just think of it this way: your truck when finished will be a few ounces lighter and that'll gain you a few tenths in the quarter mile.:icon_thumby::icon_welder:
 
Went out last night and swapped the mounts and lo and behold it sits back a good 3 or 4 inches from where it was. Wish I had patched the heater box while I was at it, but it was 90 degrees out even at 8:30 at night and it was about 98% humidity. It's not bolted down yet so I can pull it back up to do that. I need to reattach the transmission dipstick tube anyway. Progress is slow.

One question, what size nuts for the vert mounts?
 
Went out last night and swapped the mounts and lo and behold it sits back a good 3 or 4 inches from where it was. Wish I had patched the heater box while I was at it, but it was 90 degrees out even at 8:30 at night and it was about 98% humidity. It's not bolted down yet so I can pull it back up to do that. I need to reattach the transmission dipstick tube anyway. Progress is slow.

One question, what size nuts for the vert mounts?

I put my box on after the fact, not an A/C one. I pulled the PS valve cover and it was pretty easy to set on and adjust with a heat gun to check valve cover fitment.
 
:shok:




c'mon man....get that fawker together and destroy at least one set of junk tires before shitcanning it:icon_cheers:


you can doooeewww itttt!!
 
:shok:




c'mon man....get that fawker together and destroy at least one set of junk tires before shitcanning it:icon_cheers:


you can doooeewww itttt!!

:agree:

Whats the hangup? If you have the engine in you have most of the battle already fought.
 
Is it still the exhaust?

I'm with them. If my situation was better I would be all over your Ranger, I like the body better than mine. That's going to be a nice ride once it's together.
 

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