clutch works after 10 years had to put the right bolts in it unfortunately thats all that works

[Project88]

so fixed the clutch issue woop woop, rear drums are locked up tires le flat.. no move, try to throttle engine up engine dies while in neutral..... wasn't like this when i parked it 10 years ago.. checking around, found wet carpet in passenger side floor board, computer on passenger side floor board behind plastic kick panel ... engine got hot and fuel vapor locked and wouldn't start again. so that's all for the night I've got work in the morning so wont be able to update until later after work. don't have my diag equipment with me at home so will have to take some stuff home and see where and who is working. wish me luck been a long time coming also anyone know where to get the nilon fuel hose cause i kind of cut mine to isolate the none functioning fuel pump side also any one have any idea how to holley sniper efi this truck may have to do that if computer is dead...

 

[JoshT]

People will be better able to help with diagnostics if they know more about what you have. We can see that it's an 88 and manual, but there are still several engine options.

I can't think of any 1988 factory RBV (Ranger Based Vehicle) engine options that would be conducive to installing a Sniper EFI system. Snipers are designed to replace a carburetor and require a carb style intake manifold to mount on. By 88 all of the RBV engines, except possibly the 2.0L 4 cylinder, were multi-port fuel injection (MPFI). It sounds like you have a computer now, so that kind of rules ou the 2.0L 4 cylinder. The 2.3L is probably the only one that you could find a reasonibly priced carbureted manifold to begin the conversion, and even those seem hard to come by these days. Maybe a Terminator EFI system, but you're talking a lot of money for what it's being put on.

If you really need to look at alternatives to a factory ECU, you are probably better off investigating a Megasquirt (MS) based system. Either way (MS or Terminator) you're looking at a lot of wiring and tuning, but at least the MS investment is lower. When it comes to aftermarket MPFI conversion systems, MS also seems to be a lot more friendly to non-common engine options like the Ford V6s (or non-V8 engines in general) using factory components.

 

[SenorNoob]

10 year old gas in the tank?

 

[Project88]

Oh I figured out what I'd did.... Uh yeah the fuel in the tank is bad no doubt about it but I'm also looking at getting a gen2 bronco 2 fuel pump for the rear tank I've read on this forum that it supplies the needed 35 to 45 psi for the 2.9l without needing a secondary inline high pressure fuel pump. last night I was being an idiot cause of course I was.... First time getting it running and clutch working... the engines not gonna throttle up when it's only got 7psi of fuel pressure cause I was running it off of a electric carb fuel pump that I made from fuel hose and a Holley fuel pump that was on clearance at my local parts house. It had just enough to get it to idle anyway who uses AN fittings and lines for the fuel system or should I just go back to the nylon pipe either way my supply line is broken off and needs to be replaced.

 

[JoshT]

You could even use regular rubber fuel hose, just make sure that you get stuff rated for ethanol and enough pressure. If you use regular fuel hose get the clamps made for EFI, they are a little different than the normal worm drive hose clamp and hold better with the pressure.

 

[SenorNoob]

The nylon can be a little difficult to work with, but when I considered cost of anything else, it's what I ended up doing.

When did the fuel gauge resistance change? Might wanna use your sender and just swap the pump on it. I'd add a filter in place of the inline pump. Easy way out.

 

[Project88]

You could even use regular rubber fuel hose, just make sure that you get stuff rated for ethanol and enough pressure. If you use regular fuel hose get the clamps made for EFI, they are a little different than the normal worm drive hose clamp and hold better with the pressure.

I did this when I replaced the fuel pressure regulator

 

[Project88]

The nylon can be a little difficult to work with, but when I considered cost of anything else, it's what I ended up doing.

When did the fuel gauge resistance change? Might wanna use your sender and just swap the pump on it. I'd add a filter in place of the inline pump. Easy way out.

As a mechanic I've got many years of dealing with nylon but I was leaning towards AN lines because of the look. Since I'm upgrading my rear sending unit to the 1990 model bronco 2 2nd Gen fuel pump I'm gonna be getting rid of the bs high pressure fuel pump all together since the 2nd Gen uses the same connector I figure I can just adjust for that and wrap the old wires up either that or get a Holley and measure my OE fuel pump and get one that is the right size for it and put into the rear tank. (But that's the most expensive route and as I see it the issues already dealt with in the 2nd Gen)I've done this before on some classic cars so I don't have a doubt I could do the same here.( But I already got the 2nd Gen pump (so no)) Plus having a fuel pressure regulator and gauge on the engine will help with any further troubleshoot that is to come.

 

[Project88]

Update: engine spins nice since putting in the 1.8 drive in the oe starter I mean real nice probably the best I've ever heard it spin over actually no more grinding or binding going on call it fixed. Clutch good real good, waiting on nylon union to temporarily fix fuel system and Gen 2 fuel pump for rear tank since that'll take care of the fueling issues. I suspect within a few weeks I'll be doing my first actual test drive with it

 

[Project88]

10 year old gas in the tank?

So found out yesterday the gas is actually good its not varnish I think last time I put gas in it when I had just rebuilt the engine I used ethanol free gas.