clutch replacement

[AllanD]

Good instructions, but I would HGHLY recommend splitting the t-case and transmission.

Also, I have heard someone say they use ratchet straps around the frame rails liek a cradle to reinstall the trans. Never sdone it myself, but I will prolly try it next time. Seems like a pretty good idea considering sometimes you have to do some wiggling and its easy for the trans to fall off the floor jack when doing so!

I stongly agree with this.

The tranny alone weighs ~90lbs, the T-case another 72lbs
So the two together ~160lbs.

Add to that the T-case makes the trans unbalanced and awkward as hell.

And putting it back up? putting the trans (alone) up
is possible (but difficult) for one person, putting the
two up together? sounds painful...

Seperate them.

AD

 

[fish]

I and my tranny are stuck. Got the tranny unbolted and slid back several inches until it hit the sheet metal on top and the y-pipe below. I have the engine lowered to the point of the y-pipe hitting the crossmember that supports the front suspension. I don't understand the concept of a strap pulling it further out of the way. Soooooooo, I went to plan B and attacked the y-pipe to manifold bolts. The driver's side came off with no problem at all, but the passenger's side has been another story. Although it doesn't look all that rusty, a torch and impact driver has gotten me nowhere. Also, my tranny has 15mm wrench size mounting bolts, which is different than some of the information I have read here (maybe a different tranny). I greatly appreciate any help you guy's can send my way.

 

[fish]

The tranny is out! After soaking the exhaust manifold bolts overnight with Blaster, they came right with a little encouragement from the impact driver(after the torch method didn't work the day before, go figure). After comparing parts and notes, I have a new list of questions. The truck is a '95 3.0L 4x4 with 125k, and I have owned it 2 years. It appears to me that the clutch has been replaced fairly recently. The flywheel and pressure plate are smooth, and the disc I removed is the same thickness as the new one. However the pilot bearing exploded, and the new release bearing doesn't match the old bearing or the old slave. I purchased the parts as a kit, haven't purchased the new slave yet to compare. Also the Haynes manual stated that '97 and later(mines a '95) has a pressure plate that must be loaded up on a press and adjusted before installation, and it does look like my part. Do I need to do this? Is there an easier way than finding a hydraulic press (I live on an island)? And finally, is there a suitable alternative to a hammer puller to removing the pilot bearing. I appreciate the input, you guys are a wealth of information

 

[fish]

One more thing, I noticed some crude in the bell housing. Looks like a slight leak in either the rear main seal or the pan gasket(it just keeps getting better). Can someone illuminate me on how badly I really don't want to do this? thanks