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clutch problem question any ideas?


1988broncoll

Well-Known Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
357
City
South jersey
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Automatic
I have a 1991 ranger 2wd 3.0 that I bought last week it runs good and all. I tagged it drove about 20 miles total and it was shifting good and the clutch grabs great no slipping or anything. Well I was heading home and came to a stop sign at the end of my street I started off shifted 1st 2nd and 3rd with no problems I pushed the clutch in went to shift to 4th and it got to neutral and wouldnt go into gear so i tried 3rd and 5th nothing I left off the clutch and pushed it again and no pedal. I pulled over and looked under to see if I was leaking fluid thinking I blew a line but nothing I checked the resivor and its full I started it in gear and drove the 1 mile i had left to get home shifting with no clutch and it goes in gear and all just no clutch. I checked the fluid again and im not leaking anything I checked the pushrod on the back of the clutch pedal going into the master cylinder and its fine its not broke or disconnected so what does anyone thing it might be. I was thinking maybe I broke a seal or something in the master cylinder but its 70 bucks and I dont want to buy a new one and it not be the problem so i figured id ask your guys opions on it first thanks
 
Yep - if the fluid level is staying up, it does sound like a blown master.
 
Most likely the clutch master cylinder. You are way ahead if this is the case rather than the slave cylinder which is more expensive and harder to replace.They are available on Ebay for $43.00 with free shipping. You should be able to get a new one at a parts store for less than $70.00 if you check around.

If your clutch line has a shut off valve on it like my 89 you can disconnect the line at the slave end. If the clutch pedal suddenly is rock hard, then it's not a failed clutch master.

If it was me,I would get a good price on a new master and hope it fixes the problem which is probably what will happen. Remember to bench bleed the master before installing.:icon_thumby:
 
x2^
I would disconnect the clutch line from the slave and see if the pedal is rock hard, if it is, your master is probably still good.
 
Stupid question but if I disconnect the line from the slave do I plug it before I test the pedal? I've never really messed around with clutches...
 
Stupid question but if I disconnect the line from the slave do I plug it before I test the pedal? I've never really messed around with clutches...

The line is self-sealing so it does not need to be plugged, unless there is a leak in the line somewhere above the quick disconnect...that's why the pedal should be hard when the line is removed...
 
ok cool I didnt know they where self sealing. Its time to go jack the truck up and see what I can figure out.
 
So if i disconnect the line and it gets rock hard then its the slave cylinder causing the problem
 
well I messed with the line for about an hour and a half before I gave up drove into town and paid 5 bucks for the removal tool. I got back took me 2 minutes and it was disconnected. Well I had a buddy over and I told him to jump in and push on the clutch to see if it had pressure or was rock hard he pushed some and said its got pressure but its not rock hard I can force it down and just as I went to tell him to stop pushing on it SNAP busted the part of the master that came through the fire wall needless to say now I need to spend 70 bucks for that and then most likely im going to have to replaces the slave as well but I was thinking that if the slave went bad wouldnt it be leaking fluid? im lost any input would be great
 
Your slave may be leaking around the bleed valve. You can try tightening/replacing the bleed screw before pulling the trans completely.
 
sometimes they bleed back and wont leak, also it could have a little leak inside the bellhousing,(like a drip ever time you push the pedal) if any fluid can get out air will get in.
 
Ok so this is what I figured out so far. I disconnected the line and the pedal was hard so master cylinder is good. I am confused on this because my dad has a 93 f150 that we did a clutch on and the slave was leaking on it for about 20k miles we just kept filling the resivor it was a very slow leak and the pedal was soft but it was still driveable with using the clutch...... Now on this ranger I was driving it and the pedal was fine didnt feel soft or nothing and like I stated earlier I shifted 1-2-3 and I pushed the clutch in and had a pedal pulled down and hit nuetral and wouldnt go in any gear i let off the clutch and pushed it again and there was nothing at all went straight to the floor. thats what has me confused I know the clutch aint shot cause I can start it in gear and drive it and shift with out a clutch. Is there a possibility it might of had a air pocket and it finally hit the slave or what could it be I dont want to pull the tranny yet incase its just something stupid...
 
Try bleeding it really well, see if it improves, before pulling the tranny.
 
will it bleed with out haven nothing at the pedal or should I try filling the resivor and just cracking the bleeder open and let it gravity bleed first? Again it might be a stupid question but I have never bled a clutch.
 

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