clutch and drive shaft issues

[Orie]

hello there
1991 ford ranger xlt super cab
3.0 v6
5 speed mazda transmission
two piece drive shaft
2 wheel drive

ok how to start, I have a sluggish pedal in the clutch, slave and master cylinders have been replaced along with a new trans and clutch kit, and I have vibration issues from about 1000 rpm to 1500 rpm and a screeching noise coming from my NEW carrier bearing.

first question is, I'm not sure if the jackass who put together my clutch assembly bled the system right. got it back and the clutch was not letting me put the truck in gear easily I had to pump it, and I've followed a few techniques from this site aside from the 'taking the master off the firewall' because its already attached to the clutch pedal. Its not as sluggish anymore but it still feels weak, not like it did before the new parts were put in by the jackass, even with a dieing slave and a bad clutch and trans. The question I have is, should I use this technique because that's the problem now (air trapped in the master)? and if so How do I get the darn push rod off the clutch pedal or is it easier to take the pedal off maybe? any instructional links would be great because I cannot find it on here.

Also, the drive shaft was put together wrong. The whole truck would vibrate like crazy so I took it apart and the u joints weren't aligned properly, it ruined a brand new carrier bearing, and it wasn't indexed properly. I got it indexed properly and put in a new carrier bearing and now its a lot quieter. Before it would vibrate from start to stop, now its just between 1000 and 1500 rpm roughly. Which isn't a whole lot different than before I gave it to the jackass. The carrier bearing however is squealing because of the metal protective plate that covers the bearing is really loose. Did I not press the bearing in enough? and also I have about 1/16th to 1/8th inch of play in the u joint bearings and one is really stiff at the end by the rearend. I am thinking about going to this u pull and pay and getting a one piece, but I called the ford auto shop and they scared me out of doing it, telling me the pinion angle would be off and it would rattle like hell, I don't have a lift kit, just the ol' saggy leafs and stock shocks and springs. Any suggestions would be great and I hope I've given you enough information so you can guide me along ironing out my troubles, thanks in advance for your replies

 

[piotrsko]

push rod is generally held in with a c clip on the older rangers and by parts of the pushrod bearing on the newer. You have to gingerly move the bearing fingers out of the way while attempting to slide the rod off the pedal. I would think there is a special ford tool, but patience helps a lot. taking the seat out, wifes hand mirror and a lot of light helps me, but I'm big, fat and old.

other comments: On my 6 inch body lift parts supercab short bed I had a one piece drive shaft with NO carrier bearing, so ford is blowing smoke. My stuff was 84 to 89 and I am not current on the 2 piece. Should be NO play in the front and, sounds like the rear u joints are mis-installed or beat to death.

 

[Orie]

Ok I dont have a lift kit though so I was wondering if it would make a difference, in my opinion lifting it higher would put the shaft in more of a bind, but I dont know jack about drive train set ups in that aspect

 

[Orie]

what year ranger should I try to find a drive shaft from? and the u joint that slips into the rear of the transmission would be the same? or would I have to buy a new one or use the old one or what?