Clock rear after adding lift blocks?

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I just swapped a rear from a '87 ranger to my '85 b-II. The perches on the ranger were in toward the center by an inch on each side. I welded a 1/2" thick 2 1/2" by 5" plate [to the perch] offset by an inch [with a hole to match the spring bolt pre-drilled]. There is a new rear u-joint on the stock double-carden shaft. It seems to be working fine but I think I have to clock the rear because I added a 2 1/2" block at the same time,and I'm getting a vibration at ~ 110 kmh [68mph], and it gets worse the faster I go. So is that the problem or should I look at something else? From my research, i think I'm supposed to aim the pinion center line at the tranny. So is there a flat area on the axle that I can use to aim the rear at the tranny? And where is the aim point on the tranny?
Thanks,

Richard

 

[AllanD]

Why did you install a NARROWER rear in a Bronco2 when bronco2 rears are so common?

If you were willing to do welding you should've used an EXPLORER rear...

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[BlackBII]

Using an 8.8 from an Expo is the better option, but....

Well, what type of rear driveshaft do you have?

Are there two u-joints or three? Or is it a CV style?

 

[feellnfroggy]

I know all my older ford driveshafts were internally balanced and had to be installed properly to maintain balance. If I got the vibration I rotated my driveshaft 1.4 turn then bolted it back in, but most of those were mustangs, worth a shot though.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Why did you install a NARROWER rear in a Bronco2 when bronco2 rears are so common?

If you were willing to do welding you should've used an EXPLORER rear...

It's what I had on hand withh the right gearing.

Using an 8.8 from an Expo is the better option, but....

Well, what type of rear driveshaft do you have?

Are there two u-joints or three? Or is it a CV style?

3 u-joints total. 2 at t.c., 1 at rear.

I know all my older ford driveshafts were internally balanced and had to be installed properly to maintain balance. If I got the vibration I rotated my driveshaft 1.4 turn then bolted it back in, but most of those were mustangs, worth a shot though.

I'll try that. I did alignment marks for the one rear u-joint I replaced.

The only thing that changed was the new u-joint and I added the 2 1/2" blocks, that's why I was thinking that the rear may need clocking. There was no vibration before the changes. The new u-joint has a grease nipple on the outside of one cup.
Edit; and changed the rear end.
Thanks so far,

Richard

 

[BlackBII]

3 u-joints total. 2 at t.c., 1 at rear.

Richard

In that case, yes, you need the pinion pointed directly at the TC. At the Pinion, it should be nearly straight

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

In that case, yes, you need the pinion pointed directly at the TC. At the Pinion, it should be nearly straight

O.K.
Now is there a flat spot on the rear that corresponds[is parallel] to pinion centerline? I have a laser pointer that I could use to help in aiming.
It looks like I want to aim the pinion centerline at the center of the c.v. joint, or is there a more accurate spot to aim at?

 

[yyc_tbird_sc]

Use the pinion flange. If you need, put a square or anything else with a true 90* angle on it directly on the pinion flange. Point this at the transfer case, then go to town.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Usethe pinion flange. If you need, put a square or anything else with a true 90* angle on it directly onthe pinion flange. Point this atthe transfer case,then go to town.

Why yes, that should work! Duh! I guess if I'd thought a little.
Thanks,

Richard