Checking over 4x4 questions

[borjawil]

94 ranger, 4.0L, 4x4, 5 spd, manual locking hubs

Winter is here in michigan and want to make sure my 4x4 is up to the task. Ive had issues with the front bearings and lock nuts and while i have the two lock nuts and locking ring, I am missing the toothed spacer that fits on the axle and possibly the clip that goes on the end of the axle. Not sure if this is needed or how the locking hub works to engage the front wheels.

- How do the front manual hubs work?
- I have push button for 4 high and 4 low how does this work?
- Im assuming I engage the button when Im in neutral?
- what if I have the button pressed for either and my hubs aren't locked?
- what if I drive without the buttons pressed and the hubs locked?
- I have a short 8" curved tube coming from my front diff - is this just to atmosphere or where does it connect.
- Anything I should check before using the 4x4?

 

[Curious Hound]

The washer and C-clip you're asking about keep the shaft located for full spline engagement in the hub. I wouldn't run without it. Especially on the passenger side where there is a slip joint in the shaft. As the axle moves, the shaft could slide in and out of the hub if you don't have that washer and C-clip in there. Just my opinion.

I don't remember what the owners manual says about engaging or disengaging 4x4. I could go check it tomorrow. I generally engage or disengage the transfer case with the truck moving slowly. When shifting to or from low range, I stop and keep the clutch pushed in while holding the button.

You can run in 4WD without the hubs locked. I sometimes do that in low range for better low speed control when driving around my property.

You can also drive in 2WD with the hubs locked. That way when you get into a slippery situation, you can shift to 4WD without getting out of the truck to lock hubs. When you turn the handle on the manual hubs, it turns a cam that moves parts inside to lock the hub with the axle shaft. When disengaging, a spring helps separate the parts when you turn the handle.


Eric B

 

[Curious Hound]

The tube you asked about us a vent for the differential so it doesnt get hot, build pressure and push oil past the seals. You should have one on your rear diff also. The little thingy in the end of the tube, if original, is a vent fitting. It is NOT a solid plug. One of mine was missing and dirt daubers had plugged it up.keep the vent ends of the tubes up where they won't get submerged in water. Your rear one is probably clipped to the frame. Some people get longer hose and run the rear way up near the top of the bed side and the front one up high in the engine bay.

Eric B

 

[borjawil]

If I can drive in 2wd with my hubs locked, whats the point of having them be manually locked or unlocked?

 

[RonD]

Front axles will have splines(teeth) at the ends.
Front Hubs will have splines inside
The manual lock/unlock will engage both splines together or disengage both splines so they can each spin separately

Transfer case has 2 output shafts, one for rear differential and one for front differential
Most transfer cases have a 4 position shifter, 2WD(rear output only), 4High(front and rear outputs both, with 1:1 ratio, Neutral(yes, neutral, lol), and 4Low(both outputs with 2.48:1 ratio).
Manual Transfer case will have a shifter in the floor like a manual transmission, with all 4 positions available.

Electric transfer case, push button, only uses 3 of the positions, no Neutral.
2WD, 4High and 4Low
It uses an electric Motor, similar to power window motor, 12v/ground are reversed to shift transfer case to it's 3 positions, so motor turns clockwise and counter-clockwise to shift transfer case(same as power window rolls up and down ).
There are 5 contacts in the gear case of this motor, this tells the Shift Control Module what position transfer case is currently in, so it knows which direction to shift when you select a different position.

Manual hubs do not have to be locked or unlocked in any transfer case position, no damage will occur
But you will not have front wheel drive if they are unlocked, and BOTH hubs must be locked to have front wheel drive, it is an OPEN differential.

Leaving hubs locked all the time in winter is what many do, and drive in 2WD until they want/need 4High, and then they can shift to 4High without getting out and Locking the hubs.
Front hubs locked just means front differential and front driveshaft are turning when vehicle is moving, I think it reduces MPG by .3MPG so not much, but not nothing either, that's the reason for unLocking the hubs, less drag

2001 and up Rangers came with Locked front hubs, no way to unlock them, well without major changes, lol, so doesn't hurt anything to run with hubs locked.'

There is an Electric Clutch in the transfer case that allows you to "Shift on the fly" from 2WD to 4High, and then back to 2WD, it is rated for shifting at speeds up to 45MPH

For 4Low you must be stopped, in Neutral(clutch pedal down), and foot on the brake.
Same to take it out of 4Low.

Yes that tube sounds like vent tube for differential, should have a filtered cap on the end so bugs can't get in, but air can get in and out.

Flashing 4WD lights means electric shift motor is most likely not working.
Could be fuse or motor itself
No lights is most likely a fuse, there are 3
Shift Modules do fail, not common, but does happen.

Usual issue is electric motor's brushes get dirty or hang up from disuse, you should shift from 2WD to 4 Low and then back to 2WD once a month, don't have to move the truck just shift it to keep brushes in the motor clean and ready to use when you need 4WD

 

[lvwill]

You definitely need the splined washers and c clips. As far as shifting into 4 high you can push the button at any time you want, 4 high is shift on the fly. Hubs can be locked or unlocked, if I know I'm going to need 4wd I just lock the hubs and go, it doesn't hurt anything and beats getting cold and wet or muddy to get out and lock them at the last minute. To shift into 4low you need to be in 4high and stopped in neutral with foot on the brake then push the 4low button.

 

[wildbill23c]

RonD pretty much answered everything for you.

With my 88 Bronco 2, if it snows I just lock the hubs in and leave them in until the snow's gone. Last winter they were locked in for a couple months straight, and the 4WD was engaged for about a month straight. Doesn't hurt anything as long as you are in low traction conditions. Leaving the hubs locked in with a regular open differential doesn't hurt anything at all, it just wears on the drive components...which isn't an issue, your rear drive components get the same...rather more wear as they're moving all the time you are driving the vehicle.

The fuel economy loss for leaving the hubs locked in is pretty negligible...you probably burn more fuel idling your vehicle warming it up in the morning and by sitting in traffic. I used the 4WD in my 88 F250 a couple times one winter and finally realized the hubs were still locked in about 1/2 way through August LOL. Didn't cause any issues...and with that truck you didn't notice any fuel economy difference...you don't measure fuel economy in a truck with the 460 V8 anyhow HAHA!!!