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Check out my build list???


ShotnVA777

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2013
Messages
301
City
Hampton Roads, VA
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Manual
So, I acquired a 1988 2.3 longblock out of a Mustang not too long ago. With the intent to build a truck that can NOT ONLY handle, but also rev fast and hard, for a LONG time! :)

I wanted it to NOT just be another lowered Ranger, with 29's and a sound system that fills every crevice of the truck!!!

I wanted a loud, beefed up, "stockish" motor??? Lol... That makes 0 sense... Ha!

But anyways, I've started building!!! Just waiting for parts and such... What y'all think I'll have w/ this IDENTICAL setup? Something "eeehhhh" or something "YAY!" ??? LOL


1997 FORD RANGER 180-200hp NA 2.3L Ford "Lima" Build w/ 1988 Mustang Block n' Head....

SUSPENSION:
- DJM 5" Flip Kit
- Crown Suspension 3" Drop Coils
- DJM Calmax Shocks (all around)
- B2 Rear Swaybar
- Stock Front Swaybar
- DJM Dream Beams (later - will drop to 2" Beltech Springs when the time comes!)

WHEELS:
- 16x9 BLACK Diamond Racing Steelies w/ Red Pinstripe - Offset 0-10 (not sure yet, but I want them DEEP, like my women!)

CARBURETOR/INTAKE:
- Holley 350 2bbl (or other brand equivalent... such as a Motorcraft)
- Summit Street & Strip Electric Fuel Pump (w/ tube straight in the tank, cut at an angle)
- OMC Cobra Intake Manifold 2.3L
- or Esslinger Intake Manifold

IGNITION:
- GM HEI Ignition Module (ENTIRE "crossbred swap"!)
- Duraspark Coil

DRIVETRAIN:
- Stock
- 4.10 (8.8) Expo Rearend
- Hurst Short Throw Shifter

BLOCK (fully machined):
- Sealed Power - Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons (.030 over Flattops w/ valve reliefs)
- ARP 151-6002 - ARP High Performance Series Connecting Rod Bolt Kits
- ARP 151-4702 - ARP Pro Series Cylinder Head Stud Kits
-Cometic C5369-040 - Cometic Head Gaskets
- Decked Block

HEAD (fully machined) :
- Boport Stage 1.5 Cam
- "NEED HP" Ford 2.3 Round Tooth Pulley Conversion Kit
- "NEED HP" Underdrive Pulley Kit
- Bigger valves*
- 7 degree valve locks*
- Chrome moly retainers*
- Dual valve springs so it rev without floating the valves*
(* = Boport Valvetrain Kit)
- Milled Head

EXHAUST:
- 1997 Ford Ranger "tubular" exhaust manifold (cat deleted)
- 2" Thrush Turbo Style muffler dumped before rear axle

MISCELLANEOUS:
- Electric 2000cfm 14" Fan
- Delete AC stuff, keeping heat
- Steel Rollpan (FLAT)
- Front "fog light bumper"
- "Hardtop" Bed Cover (low profile)
- Paint the truck FLAT Black and Murder it out!!!
- Custom Interior
- GRANT Steering Wheel w/ Quick Release Hub
- '93 (I THINK!) Ford Mustang Bucket Seats
- Inline (on the fly) fuel pressure gauge... Among others I'll need!
- Emissions?! HA!

(THERE MAY BE MORE THAT I'M MISSING, HONESTLY. DON'T THINK SO THOUGH!
 
My one suggestion, is ditch the ranger header, its been proven to hurt performance. Buy a longtube. Www.speedwaymotors.com


Guess I could. .. I've also read that its not even worth the time and effort (BUT... lol.... THAT was on a BONE STOCK 97 Ranger, like I have now.

I figured it didn't make sense to get one, since I already have THAT on there, but you're right...Esslinger isn't over there, throwing fully built motors on a stock exhaust manifold! Why should I?!

:icon_confused: thanks for pointing that out! :icon_thumby: :icon_welder: :thefinger:
 
The cast iron manifolds with a little port and collector work are better for performance than the tube header from a ranger.
 
The cast iron manifolds with a little port and collector work are better for performance than the tube header from a ranger.

Well all be damned!

I thought the newer 8 plug head Rangers had the best "header" stock!! Duno where I heard that from?! :icon_confused:

:icon_twisted:
 
A lot of people think the tube header is better, but there's a reason in 98 (maybe earlier?) they switched back to the old style manifold with some weight reduction to the casting.
 

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