Carrier bearing or Drive shaft center support problem

[dkeith45]

I just posted this and it ended up in the WANTED section, but I'm really seeking advice from other members, not trying to find someone selling parts here.

Hello,

I just discovered this forum and need some advice.

I've read about replacing my two piece shaft with a one piece... but as it's like, 10 degrees out today, and I can only work on my truck outside, I'd just as soon get the shaft back on ASAP and maybe will look for a one piece shaft the next time the carrier bearing gos out.

Here's the main problem. Auto parts stores carrying the wrong parts. I went to Advance Auto, and they had two different bearings said to fit my Ranger... one for $19 and one for $26. I looked them both over closely, and they were identical. So, I bought the $19 bearing, got home, pulled my shaft.. pulled the old bearing... and -boggle- the new bearing is WAY wrong. It's race is too large and too wide.

I then measured the original with the only tool I had, a dial caliper, and the ID of the old bearing race was around 30mm or 1 3/16", and about 1/2" wide. The new bearing measured ID 1 1/4" and 1" wide.

So I've been searching online and it seems there are lots of other people having the same problem as I am, and none of them were able to find the right part at any store... or at least once they found one, didn't post about it.

Do any of you know where the right part can be bought?

Thanks in advance,

DKeith

 

[R***A**N**G**E***R]

I just posted this and it ended up in the WANTED section, but I'm really seeking advice from other members, not trying to find someone selling parts here.

Hello,

I just discovered this forum and need some advice.

I've read about replacing my two piece shaft with a one piece... but as it's like, 10 degrees out today, and I can only work on my truck outside, I'd just as soon get the shaft back on ASAP and maybe will look for a one piece shaft the next time the carrier bearing gos out.

Here's the main problem. Auto parts stores carrying the wrong parts. I went to Advance Auto, and they had two different bearings said to fit my Ranger... one for $19 and one for $26. I looked them both over closely, and they were identical. So, I bought the $19 bearing, got home, pulled my shaft.. pulled the old bearing... and -boggle- the new bearing is WAY wrong. It's race is too large and too wide.

I then measured the original with the only tool I had, a dial caliper, and the ID of the old bearing race was around 30mm or 1 3/16", and about 1/2" wide. The new bearing measured ID 1 1/4" and 1" wide.

So I've been searching online and it seems there are lots of other people having the same problem as I am, and none of them were able to find the right part at any store... or at least once they found one, didn't post about it.

Do any of you know where the right part can be bought?

Thanks in advance,

DKeith

I had my carrier bearing replaced by a ford dealer 4 years ago, hope this helps and btw we have the same exact bearing.

 

[dkeith45]

Yah, there's always that... going to the Ford dealer here in town... but they want $125 for the bearing. I'm hoping some auto parts store will have a knock off cheaper.

 

[adsm08]

gonna be honest with you dude, but for all the work to do it yourself, you haven't really spent much extra time or effort outside to do the 1 piece swap if you have a yard pull the shaft.

 

[dkeith45]

I hear ya. If it comes down to paying $125 to Ford for a new bearing, or doing the one piece shaft install... I'll do the one piece... I have the tools and know-how... it'll just be a pain 'cause it's 10 degrees and windy and I'll be freezin my butt off an bitchin and moanin the whole time while I'm cutting the center support brace off, LOL.

 

[adsm08]

Yeah, I think I paid a total of just over $200 for my 1 piece swap, $98 for the shaft, $25 for the rear flange that you don't need, $15 for a new rear joint, and $80 to get the joint and flange put on because the old one was frozen in too strong for my bench vice, needed a hydraulic press that I don't own.

 

[shaysman]

the only thing i could say would be go to a junk yard and get them. thats the only place i can find them. just look very carfully before you buy

 

[shaysman]

or just do the one peice

 

[noslofiveoh]

i opted to do the 1-piece when my u-joint failed. it only took about 2 hours including replacing both u-joints on the new 1-piece shaft, and after it was all said and done it only cost about $70

 

[R***A**N**G**E***R]

I just posted this and it ended up in the WANTED section, but I'm really seeking advice from other members, not trying to find someone selling parts here.

Hello,

I just discovered this forum and need some advice.

I've read about replacing my two piece shaft with a one piece... but as it's like, 10 degrees out today, and I can only work on my truck outside, I'd just as soon get the shaft back on ASAP and maybe will look for a one piece shaft the next time the carrier bearing gos out.

Here's the main problem. Auto parts stores carrying the wrong parts. I went to Advance Auto, and they had two different bearings said to fit my Ranger... one for $19 and one for $26. I looked them both over closely, and they were identical. So, I bought the $19 bearing, got home, pulled my shaft.. pulled the old bearing... and -boggle- the new bearing is WAY wrong. It's race is too large and too wide.

I then measured the original with the only tool I had, a dial caliper, and the ID of the old bearing race was around 30mm or 1 3/16", and about 1/2" wide. The new bearing measured ID 1 1/4" and 1" wide.

So I've been searching online and it seems there are lots of other people having the same problem as I am, and none of them were able to find the right part at any store... or at least once they found one, didn't post about it.

Do any of you know where the right part can be bought?

Thanks in advance,

DKeith

I just called ( AutoZone ) in lawrence Kansas and told them I needed a ( carrier bearing ) for my 1996 ford ranger 4x4 with the 4.0 engine and they came up with only 1 choice and the part number thru autozone is ( HBD206FF ) and the cost is $49.99

ALSO here is the google search results for the Autozone part number and with a quick glance they look to be correct.

http://www.google.com/search?q=HBD2...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I just called Napa auto parts also and asked for the same exact part and they came up with only ( 1 ) choice ( 93-97 rangers ) and it cost $56.70 and THEIR part number is ( HB209KF )and a google search of their part number also seems to support that this IS the correct part!!

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I called the ford dealer and they want $79.50 for the carrier bearing.

 

[dkeith45]

I fixed it, heres how

I returned the bearing to Advance Auto Parts, and took a look at their other bearing. No difference. So shopped elsewhere.

I finally found the right part at Carquest, part number MOU 35-6062. There's another ID above a picture of the bearing on the box... M1.06.05.2.1 3089. Oddly, this bearing was in a Motor-mount box.

Well... it's almost the right part anyway. It fit the drive shaft, but its race is slightly wider than the original... about 1/8" wider. What that meant was, after the yoke was driven back on, the retaining nut only barely seated, and this nut has one of those nylon inserts to keep it from vibrating loose. I ended up putting the nut on backwards so the nylon part would get the best purchase.

Another thing I changed, was the way the bearing was attached to the support bar. It had these little threaded "c-clip" fasteners and the bolts were installed at the top, making it really hard to loosen, because my ratchet would only move a click or two at a time because of the tight space. I went down to the hardware store, and purchased two grade 8, 1/2" X 1 1/2" "flange bolts and nuts" the nuts of which also have the nylon locknut feature. Socket size for these is 3/4". I then drilled out the brace to 1/2" and installed the shaft and bearing and inserted the new bolts thru the top, with the nuts on the bottom, so it was easy to reinstall using two ratchets.

And, all is good now. Drove it 275 miles yesterday and it was so quiet, I realize that the bearing was bad the day I bought the truck. What I had thought was the speedometer cable making noise, was actually the bearing.

All told it cost me $30 for the bearing, and $5 for the new bolts.

BTW, the four drive shaft bolts at the rear end connection need a 12 point, 12mm socket. They need the medium "blue" locktite liquid applied and must be torqued to 85 foot pounds. The four little bolts holding the yoke to the u-joint near the carrier bearing are 8mm. I used a 1/4" drive, 8mm deep socket. I also applied blue locktite to those and just snugged them down.

 

[Black_Splash]

Don't forget about using Explorer leaf springs.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/ExplorerLeafs.htm