carb kit questions...

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I have a 2bbl carb on my 2.8 in my pinto. The tag on the carb reads d7ye-aa. Looking at Rockauto I find listings for several carb kits. One has the same d7ya-aa as my carb. Another carb kit has d7ye-ba. My local parts has the d7ye-ba in stock and can't get the -aa. What would the difference be?
@19Walt93

PS: I bought the -ba kit but haven't opened it yet.

 

[superj]

I looked on this site and it says they both fit the same carb, like that kit covers myltiple version of your carb, which is normal. Its a regular 2150 and says its for the same year range on a 2.8.

D7YE-AA Carburetor Info Page

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I looked on this site and it says they both fit the same carb, like that kit covers myltiple version of your carb, which is normal. Its a regular 2150 and says its for the same year range on a 2.8.

D7YE-AA Carburetor Info Page

Good site! Saved it.

 

[19Walt93]

I have a 2bbl carb on my 2.8 in my pinto. The tag on the carb reads d7ye-aa. Looking at Rockauto I find listings for several carb kits. One has the same d7ya-aa as my carb. Another carb kit has d7ye-ba. My local parts has the d7ye-ba in stock and can't get the -aa. What would the difference be?
@19Walt93

PS: I bought the -ba kit but haven't opened it yet.

I've seen a lot of guys get in trouble with part numbers that were close but not the same. Breaking it down, the "D" identifies the 70's, "D7" indicates 77, the "Y" I believe means the part isn't model specific- a Pinto/Mustang II part would have an "F" in the 3rd spot, an LTD would have an "A", etc. Not sure what an "A" or an "E" in the 4th spot means. A part number has 3 segments- prefix D7FZ identifies a part first used on a 77 Pinto- then the base number "9510" for example is a carb- then the suffix which identifies the individual part. On a carb kit the difference is likely calibration, maybe a richer or leaner power valve (Ford would call it an economiser valve). If you can see the gaskets and other parts and they look right I think you're OK using it. A Motorcraft kit that's in the ball park is apt to be closer to the correct calibration than any aftermarket kit would be.
Want some free HP and gas mileage? Recurve the centrifugal advance. My 77 Mustang 302 distributor wasn't fully advanced at 4500 rpms, getting the advance all in made a world of difference. Cars in the Jimmy Carter years didn't work any better than the economy did and we had inflation in the high teens.

 

[superj]

putting different springs and fly weights in my jeep distributor made a heck of a difference, like noted above